Bertelli: “We don’t want to be a brand that nobody wants to copy.”

Getty Images

Getty Images

The above quote is from an interview Patrizio Bertelli, aka Mr Prada, gave yesterday to Bloomberg TV, and it is probably going to set off something of a hoo-ha in fashion, which has of late become very publicly litigious when it comes to copying.

Aside from the recent Gucci/Guess case, and the recent Burberry case (they sued a bunch of Chinese counterfeiters and won $100m in a Manhattan Federal court), there is the still pending YSL/Louboutin appeal. It is striking, because for years luxury – LVMH aside – was very purposefully quiet about this. I remember being told not so long ago by PPR that they were quite active in pursuing IP issues, but that they wanted to do so under the radar. Ditto Richemont.

Yet a few weeks ago even the latter called me to tell me about a trademark case they had going (which they won) in Russia. Something has changed.

“Two per cent of the population under 30, and two per cent of the population under 40 are millionaires who are not being catered to by the men’s knitwear market,” so said Jean-Victor Meyers to me yesterday, talking about his new men’s cashmere business, which aims to change all that.

Louis Leboiteux (left) with Jean-Victor Meyers

Louis Leboiteux (left) with Jean-Victor Meyers

He knows of what he speaks: aside from the fact that he has charts (three of em!) that illustrate a years worth of market research on the high net worth (HNW) population, he has his own experience: as the youngest (he’s 26) member of the L’Oreal board, having been appointed last month to take his grandmother Liliane Bettancourt’s former seat, he presumably knows his HNW world, and he has a closet to fill. When he couldn’t find what he wanted – high quality cashmere with a skinny, youthful cut – he and a friend, Louis Leboiteux, decided to make it themselves. That’s them, left, with their sweaters.

The result, launching now, is called …

Introducing the best argument I’ve heard yet about why skinny models are not, actually, ideal selling agents for fashion brands – and the only one that may actually go some way toward convincing the industry.

It comes courtesy of Ben Barry, who just received a doctorate from Judge Business School at Cambridge University and who spent the last year testing reactions among a few thousand Western and Chinese women to various models of different shape, age and race in the same dress. His conclusion: skinny models in high fashion may not be the attraction we think – especially in China.

Shock! Horror! What are all those luxury brands whose advertisements in Asia feature elongated western models and who want nothing more than to tap into all that new wealth going to do? Nothing changes a company’s behavior like hitting them where their wallet is.

Mr Barry made a video – rather catchily entitled “Does my bottom line look big in this?” explaining his findings: check it out.

Vionnet has gone gaga for Goga.

Today the classic French brand that was relaunched by Matteo Marzotto, the ex-president of Valentino, and Gianni Castiglione, CEO of Marni, three years ago, has just entered “Stage Two” thanks to a majority share purchase by Goga Ashkenazi, a London-based Kazakh businesswoman, and her investment vehicle, Go To Entreprise Sarl.

Getty Images

Ms Ashkenazi, chief executive of the MMG Global Consulting and chairman of MunaiGaz Engineering Group, is also a fixture on the London social scene, and was included in a list of “London’s 100 secret power brokers” last year. She bought “over 51 per cent”of the company, according to Mr Marzotto, who declined to be more specific than that, and also would not reveal the purchase price.

The official release says, “the settlement will be based according to evaluations of the luxury sector where Vionnet is positioned.” Vague enough for you? Where would you put it? Up near Hermes? Maybe Balmain? Hard to say.

 

 

Today is the first day of Green Week, the EU’s biggest eco-conference, and to celebrate it LVMH, the EU’s biggest luxury group (in fact, the world’s), has stepped out and announced it too is going green, and plans to “encourage its more than 90,000 employees to adopt state-of-the-art environmental practices.”

Yowza.

But why is this significant? you ask. Isn’t this just marketing guff about a brand “encouraging” its employees to be good, when in fact they can’t really concretely guarantee a change in behaviour?

I mean this title literally: yesterday at the G8 summit, Ms Trierweiler strutted out next to the other First Ladies, all in their sensible mid-height heels, in YSL Tribute sandals – the shoe I would characterise as the designer-brand luxury stiletto of the noughties. This follows, I hasten to add, her earlier appearence in another pair of YSLs even more extreme (the Palais).

Getty Images

See pictures left and below – the black shoes are her’s (the beige ones being the typical footwear for First Partners). Do we sense a contradiction here between what she wears and what she says?

Valerie Trierweiler with Michelle Obama. Getty Images

Valerie Trierweiler with Michelle Obama. Getty Images

After all, these are towering. They are platformed. They are (I know from experience) bizarrely comfortable for shoes that gives you so much height.

But what they aren’t are the sort of items you might expect from the woman partnered with the man who is supposedly France’s antidote to Bling-Bling (the Tribute shoes, currently available on net-a-porter, cost $1,095.00), not to mention the woman whose main statement on the subject of fashion has been: “I have never worn dresses by grands couturiers.” Ok, well, taken literally the statement doesn’t apply to shoes. But it’s an interesting precedent, don’t you think?

No – I am not talking about the Facebook IPO (though everyone else seems to be; poor Graff, planning their own listing in HK and valued at a notable $3-4bn, is being totally overshadowed). I’m talking about a new, otherwise unexploited, area of dressing with potentially enormous returns.

What is this mystery space?

Larger size dressing. Fashion – which is to say name-brand designers — has reached its tentacles into almost every area of the clothing industry, from sports (think Y-3 and Stella McCartney for Adidas) to fast fashion (all those H&M and Target collaborations), but it has stayed away from Plus sizes. At least up until now. Things are about to change, however, thanks to a new partnership between UK chain Evans and UK designers Clements Ribeiro – and it all came about because of Adele.

Inacio Ribeiro

Inacio Ribeiro

Adele. Getty Images

Adele. Getty Images

How did it happen? Check out these two pictures. One is of Adele performing at the Grammys. The other is Inacio Ribeiro with     one of the Evans dresses (the label is “Swan”, because “they are such elegant birds, but they are the biggest ones on the lake”). Here’s the story.

You know what they say: if the mountain won’t go to Muhammad….

After building enormous flagships and importing elaborate couture shows, fashion has entered yet another phase in its relationship with that great source of sales, China. Tomorrow the Istituto Marangoni, aka one of the most important fashion schools in European luxury (alma mater, for example, of Domenico Dolce and Franco Moschino), will unveil the creation of a Shanghai outpost.

What high-end brands do those unpredictable but desirable, virtually-enabled, live-life-on-Facebook twentysomethings like? This is a question that obsesses luxury — after all, some chunk of said twentysomethings will become the luxury purchasers of the future, and knowing what they respond to is one of the great challenges of today, and potential cash cows of tomorrow.

The other day I had an experience that gave me some clues as to the possible answers. And it’s not what you (OK, I) might expect.

Outgoing French president Nicolas Sarkozy is escorted by France's new president François Hollande. Getty Images

Outgoing French president Nicolas Sarkozy is escorted by France's new president François Hollande. Getty Images

Watching François  Hollande be sworn in as the new French president today, I was struck by how incredibly color-coordinated the hand-over of power was. I know it wasn’t planned – the Hollande and Sarkozy camps are not that friendly – but Tim Gunn couldn’t have styled it better if he’d tried.

First, as if to acknowledge the serious state in which the country finds itself, as well as the choice they made by choosing the non-blingy Mr Hollande over the slicker Mr Sarkozy, both outgoing and incoming head of state dressed pretty much entirely in black and white (So Hollande had a navy tie on, but in photos it read black-ish, just like Mr Sarkozy’s) – as did their partners, Carla Bruni-Sarkozy and Valerie Trierweiler. It may be the last time things are quite so cut and dried for any of them, but it did make for a crisp, no-nonsense set of pictures that presented a picture of unity, in a we-all-want-what’s-best-for-the-state sort of way.

Meanwhile, both Mr Sarkozy and his wife wore almost matching pinstriped trouser suits and white shirts, as if to demonstrate their own united front as they head off into private life and put paid to the speculation, recently floated, that Ms Bruni-Sarkozy had been frumping herself up for election purposes. Her look now seems to say, the election is over, I haven’t changed.

All in all, it was a dramatic contrast to the last French presidential inauguration, when Mr Sarkozy and his then-wife, Cecilia both strolled into the Elysee clad in Prada: a clear message that a new sort of political brand had arrived.

Material World

with Vanessa Friedman

About this blog About Vanessa Blog guide
Vanessa Friedman's blog deals with the fashion/luxury industry from both a corporate and consumer point of view, as well as the subject of dress.



Vanessa FriedmanVanessa has been the FT’s fashion editor since 2003, and is based in New York, though she lived in London for 12 years.
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