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Yesterday the New York Times/IHT ran an op-ed by Rhonda Garelick, a professor of English and the performing arts at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln, entitled “High Fascism” that, well, drew some interesting, if broad, parallels between high fashion and fascism, specifically in terms of body image and its tendency towards “what to wear now” dictatorship. Read more
This fashion week has been aflood with more rumours than India after the monsoon. First there was the stream of gossip about who will get the Dior job (one last suggestion: two names that haven’t been part of the conversation at all — Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler. They’re young, have a jones for French couture shapes, but a way to make them jazzy, are fluent in the worlds of twitter and youtube, and have no hang-ups about working with businessmen. But that’s just me.) And now we have the “is Alexander McQueen designer Sarah Burton making the royal wedding dress?” tsunami. Read more
There were no invitations, just emails (a lot of journalists said they weren’t going to come, sometimes because they were Jewish – I actually got asked about this, but though I was horrified by what John said, I keep my personal politics out of my professional life – and sometimes because they figured the brand wasn’t going to be active much longer); the venue changed, to a private hotel particulier on Avenue Foch; there were only about six models, who changed a few times; and I couldn’t really see any retailers. Read more
Sometimes it’s hard not to think all the charges people make about fashion being out of touch with reality are justified. Here, for example, is an employee at Celine wiping the runway free of scuff marks as everyone comes in pre-show. Can you say “Sisyphus,” anyone?
On the other hand, they are paying her, and thus helping support the economy.
Even by the standards of that most flamboyant of industries, it has been a rollercoaster of a week.
The precipitous downfall of Christian Dior designer John Galliano began with his arrest on February 24 for allegedly hurling anti-Semitic abuse in a Parisian bar, followed by the release of video footage of him slurring “I love Hitler” and an expression of “disgust” by actress Natalie Portman, the face of the Miss Dior Cherie fragrance. It culminated in his being fired this week as artistic director of Dior. One of the industry’s most lauded creative forces has been summoned before a tribunal in France for alleged public abuse, and now faces the threat of up to six months in jail.
Sidney Toledano, ceo of Dior, just got up in a black suit and black tie before the show and made this statement; here it is in full: Read more
John Galliano has gotten tired of letting everyone else (my good self included) tell their version of his story, and decided to release a statement via solicitors Harbottle & Lewis. Here it is: Read more
Yet another one of Bernard Arnault’s designers is leaving his empire, although at least this time it’s not under a cloud. Read more
There’s been a lot of talk, runway-side, about whether or not the Dior show can happen; a lot of protests vs publicity risk assessment. Here’s what I think: yes. They just need to be smart about how they do it.
if I were the Dior folks, for example, instead of emptiness to replace the usual John bow, I’d send the entire atelier – all the designers and assistants and seamstresses that actually make a collection happen – out onto the runway at the end of the show. Then the story becomes about preserving jobs, and supporting the workers that are left dealing with what Galliano wrought, and that runway full of blameless people becomes the picture that goes ’round the world, and Dior becomes the brand that cares for employees. Read more
Christian Dior has dismissed for John Galliano, its star designer, for professional misconduct over the scandal surrounding alleged anti-Semitic comments he made. Read more
WWD is reporting that Oscar winner Natalie Portman – aka the official face of Miss Dior Cherie — has officially disassociated herself from John Galliano. They quote a statement from Ms Portman saying: Read more
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