Daily Archives: January 24, 2012

Yup: this is the view from my seat at Chanel, across the aisle. This couture season they created a whole Airbus interior inside the Grand Palais in Paris, complete with faux logo carpet, wheelie carts with orange juice and champagne, and a sky and cloud video that segued into earth from above moving across the ceiling.

Why?

Maybe they were inspired by all those private planes they rented to
transport people to their recent Las Vegas extravaganza at the Wynn. Maybe
it was a comment on where the couture customers are these days (far away
from Paris in the Middle East and Russia). Maybe it was a metaphor for the
current economic situation, and the need for revenue to soar, not crash.
Maybe that’s pushing it as an interpretation.

What I do know is that, aside from a colour palette that tended to sky and
midnight blue, it didn’t seem to have much to do with the clothes, which
were heavy with gems and sequins and encrustation (although there were a
lot of balloon sleeves). What I guess is the answer is much simpler, and
more revealing in nature: because they can.

Phoebe Philo. Getty Images/AFP

Phoebe Philo. Getty Images/AFP

OK, I know that’s a bit of a misleading headline: LVMH LOVES a show. But between the extreme foot-dragging about signing a new creative force at Dior (which, technically, actually owns Paris-based LVMH, as opposed to the other way around, but for efficiency’s sake let’s acknowledge that those initials have come to stand for both), and today’s news that Celine, one of the group’s hottest brands, is not having a runway show during the upcoming ready-to-wear season because their designer, Phoebe Philo, will be eight months pregnant with her third child, it’s hard not to think that perhaps the luxury world’s biggest group may be itself rethinking the whole runway circus, and the cost/benefits involved.

Material World

with Vanessa Friedman

About this blog About Vanessa Blog guide
Vanessa Friedman's blog deals with the fashion/luxury industry from both a corporate and consumer point of view, as well as the subject of dress.



Vanessa FriedmanVanessa has been the FT’s fashion editor since 2003, and is based in New York, though she lived in London for 12 years.
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