Beauty

Recently, a woman in the midst of a career change came to see me. This former banker, who took time off to get married and have children, was on the verge of beginning a new life in the high-end fragrance business. Her launch product is a limited edition perfume called “Tiara” that will sell for $1,200 and features particularly glitzy packaging: nestling inside a white resin box is a glass vial shaped like a cupcake, “crowned” by a special silvery top studded with sapphire blue Swarovski ovals. The look was, she said, inspired by the late Princess Diana’s engagement ring, as now worn by the Duchess of Cambridge.

And so Apple is getting the final ingredient in the arsenal of a luxury brand: a fragrance. Admittedly, it wasn’t developed by the company itself; it was commissioned from a scent manufacturer called Air Aroma by an Australian art collective called Greatest Hits as part of a gallery installation, up this month. Still,  it pretty much confirms what we already knew about that brand: namely that it has transcended tech to become part of an individual’s socio-political identity — and hence open to artistic commentary.

Now, what’s Apple going to do about it?

After all, it may sound conceptual, but I think it has quite powerful real-world applications. Consumer products have been key parts of successful scents for years. And scent has been a key part of successful product marketing.

Hillary Clinton, US secretary of state, addresses the Chamber Of Commerce conference. April 9, 2012. Image by Getty

Hillary Clinton, US secretary of state, addresses the Chamber Of Commerce conference. April 9, 2012. Image by Getty

In a week of big American political news, from Rick Santorum’s campaign “suspension” to the furore over a comment from a democratic strategist about Ann Romney’s stay-at-home Mom-dom, one piece of new has, at least online, almost trumped them all: the bombshell revelation, in a piece in American Elle, that Hillary Clinton’s staff are secretly horrified at her penchant for hair scrunchies.

The aforementioned accessory is an elasticized fabric ponytail holder that was a big fashion fad, oh, about 25 years ago. If anyone wants to debate whether or not appearance matters when it comes to politics, I think the viral reaction to this information, which was buried in a long non-fashion profile, pretty much answers the question. Can we do it (comment on hair, that is)? Yes we can!

Years in fashion have taught me never to use the phrase “You can’t be serious”. I’ve learned, for example, that saying, “Patrick Thomas, chief executive of Hermès, you can’t seriously expect someone to buy that €1.5m diamond-covered gold handbag?” will prompt both a pleased grin and the perplexed response, “Yes, of course, why not?” And I’ve learnt that noting how all the models in a catwalk show have been reimagined as birds and transformed with moulded headpieces, and how the designer can’t be serious about expecting any woman to wear that, only means that said look is more than likely to appear on Rihanna a few weeks later.

The freezing winter winds are now upon us, which means fashion’s spring/summer ad campaigns are about to launch and the excited sneak-peek emails have been coming thick and fast. The most recent comes from the house of Dior, who have signed Mila Kunis, the 28-year-old actress from Black Swan, as their new “face”.

Here’s my first reaction (and I liked her as an actress): groan.

Anyway, as This Season’s Celeb she joins actresses Felicity Jones at Dolce & Gabbana Beauty and Emily Blunt at Yves Saint Laurent, both also 28, not to mention 18-year-old Cara Delevingne, model and socialite, at Burberry. They are at least all older than last season’s choices, teenagers Elle Fanning and Hailee Steinfeld, thank goodness. But the choices demonstrate, it seems to me, a real evolution (or devolution) in the fashion/celebrity relationship.

I have learnt an important lesson: when it comes to fashion, be careful what you mock; last week’s inside joke is this week’s exciting new initiative.

After all, there I was a few days ago, giggling with a friend about the Kanye West show, saying “Why did he want to start a fashion line? He’s just a great singer; it would be like Karl Lagerfeld or Miuccia Prada wanting to be a rapper”, when, lo and behold, the information arrives: Burberry is releasing a single: “Rose Unplugged at Abbey Road for Burberry.”

Whadda I know, Daddy-o?

In the “can’t-see-the-forest-for-the-giant-branded-oak-tree” category I’d  like to nominate luxury industry watchers (myself included), who’ve been so distracted by Burberry’s assumption of tech-guru status that we’ve overlooked what one report now believes to be the challenger to that status: Estée Lauder.

A study by think tank L2 on the “Digital IQ” of beauty brands that looks at their websites, digital marketing, social media use, m-commerce, and e-commerce shows Estée Lauder, one of the world’s oldest beauty groups, leads its rivals in exploiting the online community – for example…

As summer draws to a close (wah!) and September looms, with all its related back-to-school and back-to-work associations, I have a prediction to make for those who may still be at the beach/in the woods (yours truly) but are nonetheless getting a jump on things and readying themselves mentally and organisationally for The Return: this will be the autumn of Elizabeth Taylor.

In the wake of Prada’s IPO where some investors balked at having to pay Italian taxes on their share purchases, the Chinese government is considering cutting taxes on luxury imports to the mainland by 2-15 per cent, according to Guangzhou Daily.

Brands all over Europe must be celebrating the possibilities. Because if you think the Chinese buy now, just imagine what will happen when they don’t have to travel to Hong Kong or France or Italy to get their Louis Vuitton and Gucci and they can stay home and shop.

There’s an amusing profile of Silvio Berlusconi by Ariel Levy in this week’s New Yorker. Among the gossip, political and personal, however, one point stood out for me: Levy’s observation of Berlusconi’s makeup techniques.

While it’s always been clear that the Italian prime minister has an unfortunate tendency to pile on the pancake, he also, apparently, likes to wear white eyeliner on the insides of his eyes.

Getty Images

This is a television technique:  it makes the eyes “pop” on screen, and thus it’s not surprising that it has been adopted by the media mogul. But it does remind us of the problem that politicians and those in the public eye have in general: do you dress for the close-up, or the long-shot? Do you calibrate your image for a one-on-one, or a crowd scene, if there’s no time to change between the two?

Material World

with Vanessa Friedman

About this blog About Vanessa Blog guide
Vanessa Friedman's blog deals with the fashion/luxury industry from both a corporate and consumer point of view, as well as the subject of dress.



Vanessa FriedmanVanessa has been the FT’s fashion editor since 2003, and is based in New York, though she lived in London for 12 years.
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