Finance

Vionnet has gone gaga for Goga.

Today the classic French brand that was relaunched by Matteo Marzotto, the ex-president of Valentino, and Gianni Castiglione, CEO of Marni, three years ago, has just entered “Stage Two” thanks to a majority share purchase by Goga Ashkenazi, a London-based Kazakh businesswoman, and her investment vehicle, Go To Entreprise Sarl.

Getty Images

Ms Ashkenazi, chief executive of the MMG Global Consulting and chairman of MunaiGaz Engineering Group, is also a fixture on the London social scene, and was included in a list of “London’s 100 secret power brokers” last year. She bought “over 51 per cent”of the company, according to Mr Marzotto, who declined to be more specific than that, and also would not reveal the purchase price.

The official release says, “the settlement will be based according to evaluations of the luxury sector where Vionnet is positioned.” Vague enough for you? Where would you put it? Up near Hermes? Maybe Balmain? Hard to say.

 

 

Those international Vogues are fast becoming the action heroes of the fashion world.

Only last week they banded together to declare war on underage models, and now Vogue India has now announced it is following in the footsteps of American Vogue, British Vogue, and Italian Vogue and creating its own Fashion Fund initiative to promote the businesses of young Indian designers. Go team!

As I was leaving Italy after Milan Fashion Week, I was chatting to Guglielmo Miani, the young-ish CEO of Larusmiani, a family-owned manufacturer of luxurious materials, when he let drop an interesting fact. Last week the Italian government quietly changed the law it passed in November that banned retail establishments from accepting more than €1,000 in cash. Surprise!

What changed?

Now, retail establishments have no limit on the cash they can accept from foreigners, as long as they take a photocopy of said foreigner’s passport. I’ll say that again: no limit. Italians are still restricted to €1,000.

During fashion show season, which is any time between January’s men’s wear shows and this weekend, when their women’s wear collection is shown in Milan, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana don’t go out to lunch.

Maybe we should have expected this from someone who has built their business on cashmere and other super-soft, swaddling fabrics, but I was still somewhat taken aback when Brunello Cucinelli, the Italian luxury lifestyle entrepreneur who began his €250m business hand-dyeing sweaters, told me yesterday that he was excited about his planned IPO in May because he wanted “investors who would help take care of the company into the future.”

He had children, he continued as we were looking at his A/W collection, and he was in his late 50s, and soon they would need partners that would walk alongside them and help them nurture their brand.This is, in my experience, not the view most brand executives take on the benefits of going to market. They usually get excited about opening multiple stores in Asia or something.

“Do you not think,” I ventured while flipping through the Fair isle knits with feathers, velvet trousers, and fur jackets, “that this expectation is a little romantic? What about investors who want to put their money in, make a profit, and take it out?”

“No!” he said. “I believe there will be a correction in the relationship between finance and industry. They have to grow together now.

“I am going to have,” he continued, smiling beautifically. “A soft IPO.” Then he reached out and stroked a sweater.

Yesterday, two days before his much-anticipated women’s wear show taking place this Saturday in Milan, it was announced that designer Raf Simons was leaving Jil Sander, the brand he joined five years ago and effectively resuscitated, for…parts unknown. And that he would be replaced by…creative director to come. This strike anyone else as weird?

You know something is up when all the talk runway-side at a fashion show is about how a brand is NOT doing an IPO.

The Facebook listing has tech companies everywhere flirting with Wall Street (latest under discussion: etailer Gilt Group), but Michael Kors’ blockbuster public offering of last year, which saw his company attain a market capitalisation of $6.41bn, has not had the same effect on his fashion peers. Or so the folks at Tory Burch, whose a/w collection bowed this morning, might lead one to believe.

By far the most exciting thing I saw last week during the couture in Paris wasn’t couture at all, but a website that launches today: www.honestby.com. The brainchild of Belgian designer Bruno Pieters, late of Hugo Boss, it is the most subversive etail initiative I have seen. I think it has the power to transform the fashion industry. Really. You know I don’t say these things lightly. Indeed, my natural instinct whenever a fashion person tells me they have something “revolutionary” happening is to roll my eyes and grimace. But then, Pieters didn’t tell me this – I thought it up all on my own when I saw his project.

Why?

Because this site, which will sell a collection of 56 pieces for men and women (only 20 items of each style will be made, including different sizes) by Mr Pieters, and then start offering collections by guest designers in three months (he wouldn’t tell me who they were), is transparent, and mostly sustainable. Let me say that again: transparent financially and in terms of manufacturing.

The other day I got a nice email informing me that Marigay McKee, formerly Harrods’ fashion and beauty director, had been promoted to “chief merchant officer,” a relatively new title in the luxury world as far as I can tell (and one not to be confused with that other CMO, chief marketing officer). But it’s one that, I think, reflects not just a titular promotion, but a systemic change in industry thinking. After all, in fashion what you put on top always reflects something bubbling up underneath.

Christopher Bailey.

Christopher Bailey. Image by Getty.

Along with the recently-invented CCO (chief creative officer, a nomination bestowed on Christopher Bailey at Burberry and, before she resigned, Tamara Mellon at Jimmy Choo), it elevates the creative side of the business to the same executive level as the corporate side, officially acknowledging the growing synergy between the two.

After all, these same individuals had all previously been, like Ms McKee, “directors” – creative directors, if not fashion and beauty directors – creative director itself being a title invented by Tom Ford, I believe, during his years at Gucci, to indicate his move beyond the traditional role of “designer” into “overseer of all creative things.”

Looking back over 2011, which I am currently doing for a Christmas Eve column, I’ve been struck by the fact that one trend dominates all others by a significant margin, having held true from last March through year end: the IPO.

Despite all the economic gloom, fashion houses apparently have turned away from their  flirtation with private equity and now think tapping public pockets is the way to grow.

Consider the following:

June: Prada lists on the Hong Kong stock exchange, ditto Samsonite, and Ferragamo lists in Milan.

November: Coach takes a secondary stock listing in Hong Kong and Graff announces it is  planning another Hong Kong IPO for 2012.

December: Chow Tai Fook lists in HK.

Meanwhile, this week Tumi, the super-strong luggage company sold in 1,600 stores around the world, filed papers with the SEC for an IPO. And tomorrow, in an already over-subscribed offering, Michael Kors will become the first American fashion company to go public in years, trading under the name — yes — KORS. The listing is expected to value the company at $3.4bn. Zowie!

Material World

with Vanessa Friedman

About this blog About Vanessa Blog guide
Vanessa Friedman's blog deals with the fashion/luxury industry from both a corporate and consumer point of view, as well as the subject of dress.



Vanessa FriedmanVanessa has been the FT’s fashion editor since 2003, and is based in New York, though she lived in London for 12 years.
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