Hollywood

The new Rizzoli book 'Stars in Dior'

The new Rizzoli book 'Stars in Dior'

Can fashion save publishing and can publishing save fashion? Such was my thinking as I lay jet-lagged last night after returning from that far wardrobe planet called the American desert, where I had a nice, blue-jean-and-bandanna week with some cowboys and was happily protected from rattlesnakes by Patagonia hiking boots. Good thing I had those.

Anyway, my late-night questions were sparked by news of a new coffee table book from Rizzoli entitled “Stars in Dior” with Dior ambassadoress Charlize Theron on the cover. Before you roll your eyes and say “big whoop,” know this: I think this is a lot more than a thinly disguised celeb-fashion-tome. In fact, I think it’s very revealing, both of a new publishing reality and a super-smart and subtle Dior strategy.

No, the sun has not gone to my head.

Years in fashion have taught me never to use the phrase “You can’t be serious”. I’ve learned, for example, that saying, “Patrick Thomas, chief executive of Hermès, you can’t seriously expect someone to buy that €1.5m diamond-covered gold handbag?” will prompt both a pleased grin and the perplexed response, “Yes, of course, why not?” And I’ve learnt that noting how all the models in a catwalk show have been reimagined as birds and transformed with moulded headpieces, and how the designer can’t be serious about expecting any woman to wear that, only means that said look is more than likely to appear on Rihanna a few weeks later.

Fashion and satire have never been easy partners. The problem is that although fashion seems like a world ripe for mockery, its very absurdity – the extremity of appearance and, values and language that makes outsiders think it should be a perfect subject of satire – actually makes it impossible.

Most fashion houses are understandably cagey about who they are dressing for the Oscars, the most lucrative red carpet marketing event of the year, which takes place this Sunday in Los Angeles. However, as I’ve been making the rounds of the Milan shows, some bits and bobs of information have come leaking out. The fear, of course, in spilling the beans is that in the end you are proved wrong (see post on Adele at the Grammys). The dressing game isn’t over until the celebrity actually exits the limo, but a few designers were willing to go on the record.

So far the hands-down best moment of New York fashion week (for me, of course) has been the Miguel Adrover show, a mad romp back in time to the days when there was an actual underground in this city’s design scene, and men and women existed who just Had to Make Fashion, with nary a care for a commercial component.

The freezing winter winds are now upon us, which means fashion’s spring/summer ad campaigns are about to launch and the excited sneak-peek emails have been coming thick and fast. The most recent comes from the house of Dior, who have signed Mila Kunis, the 28-year-old actress from Black Swan, as their new “face”.

Here’s my first reaction (and I liked her as an actress): groan.

Anyway, as This Season’s Celeb she joins actresses Felicity Jones at Dolce & Gabbana Beauty and Emily Blunt at Yves Saint Laurent, both also 28, not to mention 18-year-old Cara Delevingne, model and socialite, at Burberry. They are at least all older than last season’s choices, teenagers Elle Fanning and Hailee Steinfeld, thank goodness. But the choices demonstrate, it seems to me, a real evolution (or devolution) in the fashion/celebrity relationship.

The Louis Vuitton store on New Bond Street

A Louis Vuitton store

We all know that film stars such as George Clooney and Uma Thurman have ambassadorial relationships with luxury brands that require their presence at various openings and launches, but the above headline does not refer to “movie stars” and “mega stores”, but actual movies in stores. This is an arresting new development.

To be specific: the flagship superstore is getting yet another special feature. After cafes and restaurants (Armani, Gucci), concert halls (Chanel), bookstores (Marc Jacobs, Armani), and art galleries (LV), comes actual film theatres. Louis Vuitton has announced that their new maison in Rome will “house a small cinema showcasing art films from contemporary artists.” Beat that, rival luxury brands!

As it happens, the new store is in the shell of an old movie theatre, so it wasn’t a giant conceptual leap, but nevertheless it is a first for a luxury name, and it has piqued my interest for a number of reasons.

And so the wait is over, the bated breath unbated, the quick-beating hearts slowed to normal speed. Breaking Dawn, the first half of the final instalment of the lust ’n’ longing, vamps-as-metaphor series Twilight has hit movie screens, and the third-most anticipated wedding dress of the year has been revealed. Yes, after the Kates, Middleton and Moss, we have … Kristen! Well, OK, Bella.

As summer draws to a close (wah!) and September looms, with all its related back-to-school and back-to-work associations, I have a prediction to make for those who may still be at the beach/in the woods (yours truly) but are nonetheless getting a jump on things and readying themselves mentally and organisationally for The Return: this will be the autumn of Elizabeth Taylor.

I admit it: I love a summer blockbuster. I can appreciate the allure of Eric Rohmer-school art-house talkies but, if I’m really honest with myself (and with you, too), it’s the explosive megaliths that get me every time. These are some of the few productions that still justify the whole big-screen-movie-going experience, as opposed to the relax-in-the-comfort-of-your-living-room experience. Surround sound! Flashing lights! The end of life as we know it!

Material World

with Vanessa Friedman

About this blog About Vanessa Blog guide
Vanessa Friedman's blog deals with the fashion/luxury industry from both a corporate and consumer point of view, as well as the subject of dress.



Vanessa FriedmanVanessa has been the FT’s fashion editor since 2003, and is based in New York, though she lived in London for 12 years.
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