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Tonight Jeff Bezos, a man generally pictured in jeans, jackets and no tie, will stand at the top of the grand staircase of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in a tuxedo, shoulder-to-shoulder with designer Miuccia Prada and Vogue editor Anna Wintour, as hundreds of women on ballgowns pause to pay him obeisance (or just shake his hand).

Getty Images

Who would have thought? I mean, let’s just compare the picture at left to the one of Anna Winour at least year’s gala below, and you’ll see what I mean.

Getty Images

Amazon is the corporate sponsor of the Met ball, aka the event of the NY social season, which brings in about $10m annually to support the Costume Institute. No one ever wants to tell how much money the headline sponsor pays for this, but a source at PPR, which underwrote last year’s exhibit on Alexander McQueen, says it’s about a million.

Anyway, Amazon’s involvement is interesting. I think it speaks to the growing belief among the tech and fashion worlds that online is the treasure chest of the future, even if no one if sure what shape it will take, and it also suggests a desire to go upmarket on the part of what most consider, as William Susman told WWD recently, a virtual “Walmart.” Amazon has a fashion site, after all — myhabit.com – but of the 30 women’s sales currently being held, only seven are what they call “designer”.

Sponsoring the Met will give Mr Bezos instant entree with pretty much any high-fashion creative director he desires to meet. He’s scratching their back by supporting their industry cultural cause. Someday they may need to scratch his.

Anyone else noticed that these days you can’t blink an eye without someone – a designer, blogger, brand – announcing they have just “curated” some on-line content?

Christopher Bailey, Burberry chief creative officer, “curated” the music that was the background of their recent sunglasses campaign. Frida Giannini, Gucci creative director, “curated” the content of the Gucci iPhone app. This has gotten so ubiquitous, Fast Company just posted a piece entitled “Content curators are the new superheros of the web”.

But here’s what I can’t help but wonder: isn’t this simply a new word for “editor”? And aren’t both terms being devalued – to the detriment of the consumer?

And so Apple is getting the final ingredient in the arsenal of a luxury brand: a fragrance. Admittedly, it wasn’t developed by the company itself; it was commissioned from a scent manufacturer called Air Aroma by an Australian art collective called Greatest Hits as part of a gallery installation, up this month. Still,  it pretty much confirms what we already knew about that brand: namely that it has transcended tech to become part of an individual’s socio-political identity — and hence open to artistic commentary.

Now, what’s Apple going to do about it?

After all, it may sound conceptual, but I think it has quite powerful real-world applications. Consumer products have been key parts of successful scents for years. And scent has been a key part of successful product marketing.

Tomorrow the folks behind yoox.com and thecorner.com, two leading etail ventures, are launching store number three. Unlike the first two sites, which are ready-to-wear boutiques that offer, respectively, less expensive last-season merchandise and cutting edge fashion, this one has a particular focus: shoes. Specifically 1000 styles of shoe, retailing for between €180-1,000. That’s a lot of footwear.

When I asked Federico Marchetti, chief executive of the Yoox Group, the obvious question — is there really such a big market for shoes and only shoes, or is this a niche sideline? — he responded with some pretty striking numbers.

It’s my belief that the iPad, for all its marvellous abilities to show feature films, make it look like you are reading actual books, and otherwise replace most electronics in your life, is actually beloved of most men I know because it lets them play Angry Birds or Zombie Smash or Hungry Shark, no matter where they are. And I do not think I am alone in this, judging by a new Prada video, which taps into exactly those gaming urges.

Nominally made to sell sunglasses, the short film depicts said glasses floating through what looks like a 3D video game universe of Prada belts and Prada suitcases, which may sound yucky, but in (virtual) reality actually looks pretty cool. This one works for me in a way the majority of fashion films, which show soulful models flipping their hair in slo-mo, do not, and I’d put odds-on it working for Prada’s male customers too. Check it out, and tell me what you think. I think they win.

There’s been a bit of a hoo-ha over the past few days in NYC over a video Stella McCartney made for People For The Ethical Treatment of Animals. In it, she tries to convince fashionistas, in town for the ready-to-wear shows (which start on Thursday) that buying leather is bad: for them, the environment and the cows.

Interestingly, the kerfuffle has to do with consumer access, rather than with the politics of the spot, or the graphic nature of the video and how leather manufacturers may, or may not, kill the cows.

A year after launch, Moda Operandi, the etailer that allows fashionistas to order directly from the runway straight after a show, is entering the next stage of its growth plan.

After carving out a niche in the US, and poaching top executives from companies including Bergdorf Goodman and Net-a-Porter, it is embarking on fresh expansion plans with the launch of an international site, a new COO (another poach from NaP), a European warehouse, translation services and deals with Chinese, Japanese and Russian Vogues. Mothers, lock up your daughters.

I didn’t really mean that last bit (besides, it’s the mothers who are doing the buying). But I do think this is worth examining, because there is some interesting strategic information in this expansion brouhaha.

In case anyone harboured any doubts about Emmanuelle Alt’s French Vogue resembling Carine Roitfeld’s French Vogue In Any Way, Ms Alt has apparently decided to put them to rest by creating the following inexplicable video, starring herself, the French TV personality Mlle Agnes, and assorted models, all looking seriously dorky, to launch the mag’s new website.

Now, I know I applauded Alber Elbaz’s humour-injecting video last autumn that also starred numerous models dancing like dodos to Pit Bull, but what this demonstrates to me is the very fine line between being funny in a catchy way, and being funny in a trying-too-hard way.

That’s just me though. Check it out for yourself and let me know what you think. Will this sell magazines?

By far the most exciting thing I saw last week during the couture in Paris wasn’t couture at all, but a website that launches today: www.honestby.com. The brainchild of Belgian designer Bruno Pieters, late of Hugo Boss, it is the most subversive etail initiative I have seen. I think it has the power to transform the fashion industry. Really. You know I don’t say these things lightly. Indeed, my natural instinct whenever a fashion person tells me they have something “revolutionary” happening is to roll my eyes and grimace. But then, Pieters didn’t tell me this – I thought it up all on my own when I saw his project.

Why?

Because this site, which will sell a collection of 56 pieces for men and women (only 20 items of each style will be made, including different sizes) by Mr Pieters, and then start offering collections by guest designers in three months (he wouldn’t tell me who they were), is transparent, and mostly sustainable. Let me say that again: transparent financially and in terms of manufacturing.

In the battle about online piracy that has pitted Google, Facebook and their technepreneur kin against content producers from Hollywood and the music industry, with Congress apparently caught in the middle, little mention has been made of fashion — which is odd, because fashion, especially the luxury end, has been actively policing the issue, and insisting on third party responsibility (ie from sites such as eBay and Google, which connect the consumer to the seller) for years.

Though all groups have been active in the area to a certain extent, LVMH has been by far the most publicly active (PPR is also aggressive about protecting its intellectual property and trademarks, but has consciously remained private about its actions; LVMH tends to trumpet wins in a press release). I offer up as exhibit A, for example, a recent post from the law firm Sheppard Mullin, which specialises in US intellectual property issues, entitled “Louis Vuitton sets a new standard in Federal trademark and copyright law.” That pretty much says it all.

Material World

with Vanessa Friedman

About this blog About Vanessa Blog guide
Vanessa Friedman's blog deals with the fashion/luxury industry from both a corporate and consumer point of view, as well as the subject of dress.



Vanessa FriedmanVanessa has been the FT’s fashion editor since 2003, and is based in New York, though she lived in London for 12 years.
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