Menswear

“Two per cent of the population under 30, and two per cent of the population under 40 are millionaires who are not being catered to by the men’s knitwear market,” so said Jean-Victor Meyers to me yesterday, talking about his new men’s cashmere business, which aims to change all that.

Louis Leboiteux (left) with Jean-Victor Meyers

Louis Leboiteux (left) with Jean-Victor Meyers

He knows of what he speaks: aside from the fact that he has charts (three of em!) that illustrate a years worth of market research on the high net worth (HNW) population, he has his own experience: as the youngest (he’s 26) member of the L’Oreal board, having been appointed last month to take his grandmother Liliane Bettancourt’s former seat, he presumably knows his HNW world, and he has a closet to fill. When he couldn’t find what he wanted – high quality cashmere with a skinny, youthful cut – he and a friend, Louis Leboiteux, decided to make it themselves. That’s them, left, with their sweaters.

The result, launching now, is called …

Will “real” men buy silk? And not silk ties, but silk shirts, silk suits, silk trench coats, silk sweaters and silk…seersucker? Can silk be sold, successfully, as “the cashmere of summer,” and hence raise the stakes in the race for the next luxury fibre once again? These are the questions.

Not that Hamlet had to worry about them, of course. Ermenegildo Zegna does.

Zegna, which bought a specialist silk mill two years ago in order to produce a whole new collection called — shocker! — Zegna Silk, thinks the answer is yes. They had a big party last night at their New York store to prove it, with skeins of jewel-toned silks all over, raw silk fibre curling down from shelves, specially commissioned “silk thread” paintings by the artist Emil Lukas on the walls, and lots of champagne. I saw a bunch of guys trying on the silk trench, which really looked like a kind of lightweight navy number. Still – a silk suit? It’s not very…macho. It’s kind of the fashion equivalent of quiche.

As if the Jubilee and the Olympics weren’t enough, this June London fashion will inaugurate its first ever dedicated men’s wear – well, not week, three days! You have to start somewhere.

From June 15-17, 50 designers, including the Savile Row folks and buzzy names like Christopher Kane and JW Anderson, will strut their stuff down the runway during “London Collections: Men.” It’s a big leap forward from the previous situation, which saw a menswear day tacked on to the end of the womenswear shows — at which point all the editors had decamped to Milan, because Gucci opened at the same time. But it doesn’t go far enough.

Yes, the announcement marks an interesting evolution in British fashion thinking. Perhaps its global leverage doesn’t reside in womenswear after all. For years Savile Row has been banging on about the need to protect its heritage, and the UK tailoring tradition, and the fact that London menswear is possibly a stronger international brand than, say, London womenswear, which tends to get more institutional support (the residents of 10 Downing street keep having cocktail parties to open the women’s shows).

Certainly, when it comes to heritage names, menswear labels like Huntsman and Gieves & Hawkes have shown greater resiliency and economic and aesthetic power that the women’s, as the recent Aquascutum debacle demonstrates. And it’s great that the British Fashion Council, which organizes the shows, took the initiative and organized the men’s brands into a cohesive whole.

But what really niggles for me – the loose thread in all this, if you will – is the evolution in thinking that DIDN’T happen: the fact that the BFC didn’t seize the chance to re-imagine the whole concept of collection from the ground up.

Presumably, the idea behind launching this summer was to piggy back on the current all-eyes-on-London period. This risks event fatigue however – especially given that London men’s comes just before the men’s shows in Florence, which come before the men’s shows in Milan and then Paris – especially given that compared to the Olympics and the Jubilee, men’s fashion week is rather less of a once-in-an-era hoo-ha (if you don’t cover it this season, you can always go next). Even more importantly, however, it is, in form and content, more of the same.

And really, if you are starting from scratch, why have a traditional fashion week at all? If there’s one consistent industry feeling about the current state of the collections, it’s that they don’t work: they are enormously expensive for both brands and buyers, they are a mish-mash of trade show and marketing expense, their twice-a-year-schedule bears no relationship to the almost year-round product delivery schedule of brands. The BFC had an opportunity here to propose a new way of doing things.

We have the technology – see the recent and very successful initiative from US events powerhouse KCD that put shows on-line – and this could be the moment to use it, to transform the entire show universe, first created in the 1960s, into a contemporary experience. The new London shows would have been the perfect opportunity to break the mold, and set an industry precedent.

Instead, well — it’s an old look.

On Sunday the French electorate goes to the polls for the first round of presidential elections, which are widely expected to result in a François Hollande/Nicolas Sarkozy face-off in round two. Much has been made of this being a quasi-referendum on the future of the euro, France’s relationship with Germany and the rate of taxation on the top 10 per cent of the population (not to mention whether or not France feels it’s time to get a Socialist back in the Elysée). But it seems to me there’s another issue also at stake that hasn’t really been discussed but is equally interesting: the question of what it means to appear presidential in a straitened economic era.

Much hair-pulling and hand-wringing has gone on in the last few years over the migration of manufacturing jobs from Western nations to Asia, where costs are lower – exemplified in part in the Obama administration’s current “Made in America” campaign – but a piece today in the FT suggests that, when it comes to luxury and Europe at least, the equation may be about to reverse.

The story, which I encourage you to read (and not because I am a co-author, but because my colleague, Rachel Sanderson, has done a terrific job putting this all in context) is about a new Chinese luxury men’s wear brand named Sheji, owned by the Chinese, designed in China — but made in Italy.

Why Made in Italy? Because Chinese consumers have swallowed, hook, line and sinker, the idea, widely promulgated by European luxury brands to justify their pricing premiums, that Europe is the cradle of luxury and all associated know-how.

Enter George Osborne, the UK chancellor, with the 2012 Budget in its little red box (at least symbolically). It strikes me that this photo op has to be one of the weirder moments in political imagineering.

George Osborne

George Osborne. Image by Getty

That little red case looks an awful lot like an old Coach handbag I used to have, and the whole bright grin and presentational pose lends a slightly surreal edge to an otherwise serious event. It effectively depicts an economic plan as an accessory, which may be true (metaphorically, you could argue it’s an important part of a complete governmental look) but more immediately it serves to highlight the way dress can be used before words even enter the picture. No pun intended.

 

So what of Mr Osborne’s look on budget day?

David Cameron and Samantha Cameron disembark (Getty)

There is a tendency, among political leaders, especially of the UK-US variety, to engage in covert sartorial diplomacy during state visits; in effect for the visitor to mirror the dress of the visitee in order to suggest a discreet sort of understanding of the agenda — at least as far as photo ops go.

 

Such was the case when Gordon Brown first came to see Barack Obama, for example (both did that dark suit,blue tie thing), and such was often the case with Tony Blair and George W. Bush. Yesterday, however, when David Cameron showed up for his current US trip, the changed nature of the relationship seemed to be reflected in his wardrobe. One day in, there’s been zero matchy-matchy.

 

See, for example, the British deplaning, for which Mr Cameron sported a purple tie — a colour yet to be seen on the president, and one that seemed particularly significant, given that a high percentage of the time Mr Cameron favours blue ties, which is also the primary colour of President Obama’s ties. Thus, for Mr Cameron to choose not to wear blue can be read as a conscious declaration of independence. (After all, the deplaning moment is an enormous and unavoidable photo op. It sends signals; see, for example, Mrs Cameron’s choice to fly her national brand flags via a Burberry trench.)

 

During fashion show season, which is any time between January’s men’s wear shows and this weekend, when their women’s wear collection is shown in Milan, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana don’t go out to lunch.

Most of the fashion world may be focused on the current round of women’s runway shows with Milan Fashion Week beginning tomorrow, but the New York Times has also been casting its eye over the growth in men’s wear sales.

The most striking point in this story is the choice of language used by retailers. According to NPD Group , the market research firm cited in the article, the growth in men’s wear, at least in the US, is being driven by spending on accessories: “sales grew 14 percent in the last half of 2011, to about $6 billion” and in order to make those accessories even more attractive to the consumer, names regarded as “feminine” are being adapted for the male market. Retailers are inventing new language to cater for their male clientele.

As New York Fashion Week began, news came that Mitt Romney had won the Maine Republican caucuses. And during the next few days, as the autumn/winter collections continued and the fashion pack trekked from Lincoln Center to various art galleries in Chelsea and back, the talk was of Rick Santorum’s rise as an alternative, and how serious any of it was.

Material World

with Vanessa Friedman

About this blog About Vanessa Blog guide
Vanessa Friedman's blog deals with the fashion/luxury industry from both a corporate and consumer point of view, as well as the subject of dress.



Vanessa FriedmanVanessa has been the FT’s fashion editor since 2003, and is based in New York, though she lived in London for 12 years.
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