Politics

“This is a landmark case with worldwide implications”

So a precedent has been set in Russia. That quote above is from Frederick Mostert, Richemont’s chief legal counsel and member of the board, and it refers to the fact that yesterday the Swiss conglomerate won a case in the Russian Federal Supreme Court, wherein they sued a Russian company called Ritter Gentleman that had registered the trademark Vacheron Constantin and applied it to middle-market clothes. Yes, this is the same question I write about Monday. It’s been resolved!

The result – a unanimous decision by 12 sitting justices – held that a well-known trademark in another country may not be co-opted and applied to different goods in the local country because it is confusing to the consumer and unfairly trades on reputation. It recognizes, effectively, the global nature of luxury brands, and the fact that different classes of goods (clothing vs watches and jewellery, for example) are increasingly created under the same rubric. The result is a new legal standard in Russia regarding trademark protections that will be very useful not only to any other luxury brand doing business in the country but any luxury brand doing business in other emerging markets.

Hoo-ha.

On Sunday the French electorate goes to the polls for the first round of presidential elections, which are widely expected to result in a François Hollande/Nicolas Sarkozy face-off in round two. Much has been made of this being a quasi-referendum on the future of the euro, France’s relationship with Germany and the rate of taxation on the top 10 per cent of the population (not to mention whether or not France feels it’s time to get a Socialist back in the Elysée). But it seems to me there’s another issue also at stake that hasn’t really been discussed but is equally interesting: the question of what it means to appear presidential in a straitened economic era.

Hillary Clinton, US secretary of state, addresses the Chamber Of Commerce conference. April 9, 2012. Image by Getty

Hillary Clinton, US secretary of state, addresses the Chamber Of Commerce conference. April 9, 2012. Image by Getty

In a week of big American political news, from Rick Santorum’s campaign “suspension” to the furore over a comment from a democratic strategist about Ann Romney’s stay-at-home Mom-dom, one piece of new has, at least online, almost trumped them all: the bombshell revelation, in a piece in American Elle, that Hillary Clinton’s staff are secretly horrified at her penchant for hair scrunchies.

The aforementioned accessory is an elasticized fabric ponytail holder that was a big fashion fad, oh, about 25 years ago. If anyone wants to debate whether or not appearance matters when it comes to politics, I think the viral reaction to this information, which was buried in a long non-fashion profile, pretty much answers the question. Can we do it (comment on hair, that is)? Yes we can!

Much hair-pulling and hand-wringing has gone on in the last few years over the migration of manufacturing jobs from Western nations to Asia, where costs are lower – exemplified in part in the Obama administration’s current “Made in America” campaign – but a piece today in the FT suggests that, when it comes to luxury and Europe at least, the equation may be about to reverse.

The story, which I encourage you to read (and not because I am a co-author, but because my colleague, Rachel Sanderson, has done a terrific job putting this all in context) is about a new Chinese luxury men’s wear brand named Sheji, owned by the Chinese, designed in China — but made in Italy.

Why Made in Italy? Because Chinese consumers have swallowed, hook, line and sinker, the idea, widely promulgated by European luxury brands to justify their pricing premiums, that Europe is the cradle of luxury and all associated know-how.

Mitt Romney’s sweeping victories in the Wisconsin, Maryland and District of Columbia primaries had some concluding that he is leading the race to be the Republican nominee. I, however, came to my own conclusion: about his fashion strategy.

The various looks Mr Romney has been exploring on the campaign trail have now gelled into a uniform of an open-neck button-down and jeans on the hustings, and dark suit, white shirt and blue patterned tie on the podium — ie pretty much an EXACT replica of what the current president wears.

Getty Images

This could indicate lack of fear about accusations that Mr Romney is just another version of the current administration in Republican clothing. Or it could be a conscious decision to, as they say, take the game to the president (or even an effort to win over those independent voters who went with Obama last time, but are unconvinced now). Both possibilities are interesting, especially when combined with Ann Romney’s choices — which are a very different story, at least as displayed at the Illinois, Florida, Michigan and Iowa primaries. Indeed, they are a traditional Republican story.

Enter George Osborne, the UK chancellor, with the 2012 Budget in its little red box (at least symbolically). It strikes me that this photo op has to be one of the weirder moments in political imagineering.

George Osborne

George Osborne. Image by Getty

That little red case looks an awful lot like an old Coach handbag I used to have, and the whole bright grin and presentational pose lends a slightly surreal edge to an otherwise serious event. It effectively depicts an economic plan as an accessory, which may be true (metaphorically, you could argue it’s an important part of a complete governmental look) but more immediately it serves to highlight the way dress can be used before words even enter the picture. No pun intended.

 

So what of Mr Osborne’s look on budget day?

Should first ladies dress for themselves, their country, or their
husband’s agenda? I pondered this question last night when Michelle Obama and Samantha Cameron made their much-anticipated appearance at the White House’s “official” dinner for the British prime minister.

Getty Images

Both women chose long dresses in shades of blue, but beyond that, there was a significant difference in what they wore. I’m not talking about the fact that Mrs Obama, as is often the case for evening, bared her arms.  I’m not even talking about choice of designer, (though Mrs Cameron was dressed by Alessandra Rich and Mrs Obama by Marchesa), but rather about the designers’ nationality.

Now we’re getting into the fine print!

David Cameron and Samantha Cameron disembark (Getty)

There is a tendency, among political leaders, especially of the UK-US variety, to engage in covert sartorial diplomacy during state visits; in effect for the visitor to mirror the dress of the visitee in order to suggest a discreet sort of understanding of the agenda — at least as far as photo ops go.

 

Such was the case when Gordon Brown first came to see Barack Obama, for example (both did that dark suit,blue tie thing), and such was often the case with Tony Blair and George W. Bush. Yesterday, however, when David Cameron showed up for his current US trip, the changed nature of the relationship seemed to be reflected in his wardrobe. One day in, there’s been zero matchy-matchy.

 

See, for example, the British deplaning, for which Mr Cameron sported a purple tie — a colour yet to be seen on the president, and one that seemed particularly significant, given that a high percentage of the time Mr Cameron favours blue ties, which is also the primary colour of President Obama’s ties. Thus, for Mr Cameron to choose not to wear blue can be read as a conscious declaration of independence. (After all, the deplaning moment is an enormous and unavoidable photo op. It sends signals; see, for example, Mrs Cameron’s choice to fly her national brand flags via a Burberry trench.)

 

During fashion show season, which is any time between January’s men’s wear shows and this weekend, when their women’s wear collection is shown in Milan, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana don’t go out to lunch.

One of the weirder pieces of news to emerge from London Fashion Week so far comes not from a boldface fashion name, but a Savile Row tailor, Cad and the Dandy: it has just gifted a suit to Kim Jong-eun.

Yes, that is correct: North Korea’s new leader. Forget Alexa Chung and other front-row stalwarts seen at shows from Mulberry to Matthew Williamson. This puts a new spin on celebrity dressing, not to mention penetrating the Asian market.

Material World

with Vanessa Friedman

About this blog About Vanessa Blog guide
Vanessa Friedman's blog deals with the fashion/luxury industry from both a corporate and consumer point of view, as well as the subject of dress.



Vanessa FriedmanVanessa has been the FT’s fashion editor since 2003, and is based in New York, though she lived in London for 12 years.
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