Royal wedding

Recently, a woman in the midst of a career change came to see me. This former banker, who took time off to get married and have children, was on the verge of beginning a new life in the high-end fragrance business. Her launch product is a limited edition perfume called “Tiara” that will sell for $1,200 and features particularly glitzy packaging: nestling inside a white resin box is a glass vial shaped like a cupcake, “crowned” by a special silvery top studded with sapphire blue Swarovski ovals. The look was, she said, inspired by the late Princess Diana’s engagement ring, as now worn by the Duchess of Cambridge.

This morning, looking at pictures of Kate Middleton in the black and white lace Alice Temperley gown she wore for her first royal film premiere yesterday (Steven Speilberg’s War Horse), I was struck by the fact that it seems the Duchess of Cambridge has decided to stick to British designers for dress-up. There’s an interesting choice here.

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Michelle Obama is given a lot of credit and attention for the way she has, and does, use fashion to communicate a certain independence and openness and exhuberance, but I think the Duchess is turning out to be just as canny a sartorial operator. It’s just that we are so focused on the dresses themselves we don’t see the larger diplomatic picture.

After all, though the Duchess’ dress code ranges widely during the day, from Zara to Ralph Lauren to Erdem, when it comes to evening gowns the biggies have been by Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen, Jenny Packham, and, now, Ms Temperley — Brits all. If you think about the relative paparazzi attention accorded to gowns over day dresses, and the cost of the former versus the latter, the numbers of the first are much bigger than the second.

British Fashion Awards 2011 - London. Sarah Burton with the Designer of the Year award. Credit: Ian West/PA Wire

Sarah Burton, Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards 2011. Ian West/PA Wire

Take a wild guess who won the designer of the year award at the British Fashion Awards last night. Yup, it was Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen. A well deserved win, given her acclaimed royal wedding dress and the sensitive way in which she has interpreted Alexander McQueen’s legacy, but not really a surprise. It was the first of many not-really-a-surprises at the awards, held in London’s Savoy hotel, which is probably a good thing, indicating that there is a consensus behind which British names are ones to be confident about.

Mary Katrantzou, who won the Emerging Talent – Womenswear award, is fast becoming a highlight – if not the highlight – of London Fashion Week. Not only are her bold and unusual prints arresting, they are also tailored to be highly wearable and fairly commercial. The question of when a designer is no longer deemed to be emerging can be a problematic one though; there’s often no clear moment when they become – like a butterfly from a chrysalis – fully formed.

It’s November — which in magazine calendar-speak means December issues, which in turn means Best-Dressed Lists. Yahoo! Whoop-dee-doo. Who makes the cut?

First out of the blocks is Harper’s Bazaar UK, and guess who tops the list? Ok, well, the headline kind of gives it away.

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Yes, Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, is perhaps the most unsurprising choice ever. Indeed, I would argue I could have predicted this in January, before she had even embarked on her Alexander McQueen/Erdem/Amanda Wakeley (that’s a Wakeley dress from last week, left) journey into the public eye. Because really, let’s be honest: best-dressed lists are not just about being best-dressed, and the Duchess isn’t the best dressed woman in the country.

Best-dressed lists, at least as they currently exist, are about selling — magazines and clothes — and the Duchess is, arguably, the best-dressed young royal. Or the best twenty-something figurehead who mixes high street and designer. Or maybe the best dressed for her complicated, ill-defined role.

August in the UK is the silly season (well, not so much this year – this year, things are looking rather serious – but traditionally). It’s when everyone goes on holiday and the definition of “news” gets stretched but, even by those standards, among the silliest, as well as the strangest, events of this summer is the elevation of Pippa Middleton to style icon status. Every month I think it will go away – and every month I discover I am wrong.

I have weddings on the brain this week. Not just because my parents have been married 50 years today – mazel tov – but because we are approaching the second big wedding event of the summer: the nuptials of the other Kate the Great, and all the designer-related opportunities therein. Whether Kate Moss marries her fiancé, Kills guitarist Jamie Hince, next Saturday as announced or this coming Friday as rumoured (to throw off all those photographers, who aren’t Mario Testino, hiding in the bushes), or some other time entirely (always possible), you can be sure of one thing: whatever she wears will set wedding dress trends for the foreseeable future.

The news that the strange and controversial Philip Treacy creation sported by Princess Beatrice at the wedding of Prince William and Catherine Middleton has been sold on eBay for £81,000 is both generally shocking (although very nice for UNICEF and Children in Crisis, which will share the proceeds) and shockingly educational.

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This is just above the price raised at auction by the lacy — what? Tube? Stretch skirt worn as a dress? — that supposedly caught Prince William’s eye when Ms Middleton modelled it in a charity fashion show at the University of St Andrews (that went for a whopping £78,000).

So is bad fashion worth more in historical terms than good fashion?

Certainly, the very tasteful Valentino suit worn by Princess Beatrice to the wedding would never have sold for the same sum as that…what exactly was it? Pair of antlers? It looks to me like a curvy ribbon atop a commemorative plate worn as a forehead protector.

And so the Queen has gone to Ireland for the first time,  and she has done so in her usual, thought-through finery.

There she was, getting off the plane on the Emerald Isle in emerald green hat and coat!

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There she was, laying a wreath in white versions of the same! There she was, in other words, flying two-thirds of the Irish flag without saying a word. How’s that for sartorial diplomacy?

 

 

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Admittedly, she has yet to appear in head-to-toe orange, but she has two more days for that, and the odds are pretty good. After all, ever since Norman Hartnell started tutoring her in dressing for a crowd  many years ago she has consciously and consistently used colour as a tool to both stand out and give a respectful nod to different nation states. It’s the reason she co-ordinates her hat and coat: you can see her no matter where she is in a crowd. It’s also the reason she generally appears in what the Pantone people might call saturated shades (granted, on day two in Ireland she wore a polka-dot coat, but the telescopic effect was of a soft green, not spots).

And so we have ourselves a new style icon. On Friday Catherine Middleton became a princess, walking through the doors of Westminister Abbey not just into royal history, but sartorial history too – whether she likes it or not, and whether the international fashion police like what she wore or not. Not that she has much choice in the matter. When you are a public figure, especially a female public figure, you are judged on what you wear.

We all know now that Alexander McQueen’s fortune has been made thanks to the fact their designer, Sarah Burton, was chosen to create the royal wedding dress, but the buck doesn’t stop there. Indeed, there are a number of other brands and sectors that will benefit from having a product in the royal wedding. Starting with:

1. Cartier: the French brand made the tiara that was the subject of much will-she-or-won’t-she speculation pre-wedding, conventional wisdom dictating that a jewelled headpiece would be too old-fashioned an option for the new-fangled bride. Well, lo! She went with tradition, borrowing the “halo” tiara made in 1936 and bought by The Duke of York (later King George VI) for his wife (later Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother), who then gave it to The Queen for her 18th birthday. Expect a tiara resurgence, and a Cartier spotlight.

Material World

with Vanessa Friedman

About this blog About Vanessa Blog guide
Vanessa Friedman's blog deals with the fashion/luxury industry from both a corporate and consumer point of view, as well as the subject of dress.



Vanessa FriedmanVanessa has been the FT’s fashion editor since 2003, and is based in New York, though she lived in London for 12 years.
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