Travel

Briefly in Milan for the furniture fair, I was chatting at a Poltrona Frau dinner to Luca di Montezemolo, whose private equity firm Charme owns Frau, when he announced happily that this weekend he and Diego Della Valle, chairman of Tod’s (along with Gianni Punzo, Bank Intesa Sanpaolo, Generali and the French rail company SNCF), will become the proud parents of yet another luxury item: Europe’s first fully privately-owned high speed luxury train

The new NTV high-speed Italo train. Image by Getty

The new NTV high-speed Italo train. Image by Getty

Dubbed Italo, owned by NTV (Nuovo Trasporto Viaggiatori) and linking Naples and Venice to Rome, Florence and Turin among other cities, the trains are less brand extension than empire extension: they will be Ferrari red (Mr Montezemolo is also chairman of Ferrari, though there is no official relationship between the two companies), with leather interiors by Poltrona Frau.

In other words, they will effectively leverage brand relationships and the image of the owners, and say to anyone who pays attention to such things: ride like an industrialist!

For those not seduced by the above, they will also have TVs, WiFi, and a movie theatre.

“We put in a lot of money, personally,” said Mr di Montezemolo; the total cost reported by Guy Dinmore in the FT as €1bn when the trains were first unveiled last year (Mr di Montezemolo, Mr Della Valle, and Mr Punzo together own 33.5 per cent).

Still, Mr di Montezemolo seemed pretty chuffed at the idea of restoring the glamour to rail travel. “City centre to city centre, you can work in a nice chair, not bumping elbows with anyone,” he said. “It’s great, no?!”

So here’s the bet: efficiency+luxury+personal brand = consumers. Think it will pay off?

You’ve heard of eco-tourism, and experience tourism? Well, in a report entitled “Around the World” (link to follow) HSBC has identified yet another sub-niche in the industry: accessories tourism, or the tendency of consumers from the emerging markets to plan their trips according to where the handbags are cheapest.

According to the HSBC report, there are “increasing incentives to travel from an economic standpoint as purchasing power and currency fluctuations can play an important role as well as relative price positioning”.

OK, we all knew this was true to a certain extent: all those lines outside Louis Vuitton in Paris full of non-Parisians clearly meant something, but according to the report, this is less about status (the chic of buying from the point of origin) than economic intelligence (the savings involved). And it has reached a critical mass that is pretty hard to ignore.

Harvey Weinstein is accessorising his production slate.

The Project Runway kingpin realised before everyone that fashion was both visual enough and competitive enough to make great reality employment TV. Now, according to Nikki Finke’s Deadline,  he has created a spin-off series along the lines of Project Handbag (and shoes, and jewellery, and… hats?) that will feature accessory designers, and has sold it to Lifetime.

Harvey Weinstein watches Heidi Klum at the Project Runway Finalists Fashion Show in 2008

Harvey Weinstein watches Heidi Klum at the Project Runway Finalists Fashion Show in 2008 -- Getty Images

I can’t quite decide if what is officially, and super-creatively, titled Project Runway: Accessories, will work.

Certainly, no one can argue with the success of the parent show.

On the upside, accessories are famously easier to sell than ready-to-wear: they’re priced more accessibly; independent of sizing and thus simpler to manufacture and more broadly appealing; and widely touted, these days, as recession-friendly, the way to change an outfit without breaking your budget by buying, say, a whole new coat. Accessories are having a moment, and TV might as well exploit that.

The expansion of Jimmy Choo continues apace as its owner, the private equity firm TowerBrook (which bought the company 3.5 years ago), mulls over the options for recapitalisation with Goldman Sachs and Morgan Stanley. Whether they decide an on IPO, a sale to another private equity firm, or to keep their investment for another 3-5 years, all options on the table according to an insider, is to be decided, but in the meantime the product side of the business under Chief Creative Officer Tamara Mellon has sprouted another extension: travel bags.

Here they are:

A part of the brand’s 24/7 line, which focuses on classic styles that don’t change with the seasons, the carry-ons “complete the life style offering,” said a spokesperson. It seems to me, however, that actual suitcases would complete things even more. (Personally, given new airline regulations, I feel the larger the single suitcase that can go in the plane and save you paying extra for a second bag, the better.)

So did the folks at Choo simply overlook this opportunity, or was it a strategic decision to suggest, with great subtlety, one of the many possible directions in which a new owner could take the brand? Given the canny way Ms Mellon has played things since she launched 15 years ago, my money’s on the latter.

Material World

with Vanessa Friedman

About this blog About Vanessa Blog guide
Vanessa Friedman's blog deals with the fashion/luxury industry from both a corporate and consumer point of view, as well as the subject of dress.



Vanessa FriedmanVanessa has been the FT’s fashion editor since 2003, and is based in New York, though she lived in London for 12 years.
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