Womenswear

I’m not sure when the Christmas jumper first became a “thing”. Once upon a time it seemed only to be a feature of films, worn by Hollywood stars such as Macaulay Culkin in John Hughes’ Home Alone as he merrily detonated Christmas baubles to deter intruders, or corpulent John Candy-types as they made their flatulent passage across the US. In Britain, they appeared as significant extras in class-based seasonal tragicomedies starring Julie Walters or Jim Broadbent, where they were accessorised with glinting Santa earrings and coronary heart failure.

Frida Giannini and Patrizio di Marco of Gucci

Change is in the air at Gucci. Power couple Patrizio di Marco and Frida Giannini are to leave the luxury brand in a joint announcement issued by Kering this morning. Read more

What is a gown? And where does such an extravagant garment belong in a world of denim and parkas?

No-one can reinvent sportswear quite like Alexander Wang. Renowned for his urban aesthetic, the American designer’s hotly-anticipated collaboration with H&M puts a futuristic spin on practical performance wear. Read more

Dolce & Gabbana SS15  © Catwalking

From crimson lips, to acid-bright eyes, to oil-slick hair, here are the biggest trends for Spring Summer 2015. Read more

This September's Vogue Italia cover  © VOGUE

Quite what the collective noun for models might be is debatable (a symmetry? A perfection?). But we should find one, because model gangs are owning the September issues. Read more


The luxury M&A rumour mill has gone into overdrive yet again amid reports that LVMH is looking to acquire a minority stake in bright young New York fashion brand Proenza Schouler.

Although the terms of any potential deal have not been disclosed, people familiar with the situation said that LVMH was looking to take as much as 40 per cent in the label, which was founded in 2002 by designer duo Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez.

Proenza Schouler’s current group of investors is spearheaded by Theory supremo Andrew Rosen and John Howard of Irving Place Capital, also the powerhouses behind cult contemporary label Rag & Bone. Read more

The Honourable Woman, the political thriller currently reaching its apogee on the BBC, makes a compelling case for the continuing influence of minimalist power dressing. Hugo Blick’s eight-part conspiracy drama, rather dishonourably squandered within the holiday doldrums of the summer schedules (and now airing to US audiences on the Sundance channel), features such sumptuously luxuriously spare tailoring, svelte silhouettes and form-skimming power skirts that one could argue that the Célinification (so named after the influential label headed by the 41-year-old designer Phoebe Philo) of the moneyed elite is now complete. At least onscreen.

 

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And so that extended and amorphous season known as “Cruise” or “Pre-fall” – you know, the clothes that go on sale in late October/November, and hang around until February, and thus constitute the bulk of a brand’s winter revenues — has semi-officially kicked off. Last night the Dior juggernaut came to Brooklyn for a show in the Navy Yards before a few thousand retailers, press and clients. Mostly clients. Which makes sense, right? They’re the buyers. Shouldn’t they see it first? Direct communication (direct sales?) ahoy! Read more