Tag: Alexander McQueen

What high-end brands do those unpredictable but desirable, virtually-enabled, live-life-on-Facebook twentysomethings like? This is a question that obsesses luxury — after all, some chunk of said twentysomethings will become the luxury purchasers of the future, and knowing what they respond to is one of the great challenges of today, and potential cash cows of tomorrow.

The other day I had an experience that gave me some clues as to the possible answers. And it’s not what you (OK, I) might expect.

Today PPR, the French luxury group, owner of Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent and Puma brands, came out and did two things that I don’t think any other luxury brand has done so far: publicly put its money where its mouth is. It officially committed to environmental goals to reach by 2016 – announcing them for all to see (and measure, and wave critically in the air if the company fails to fulfill them), and it invested in a carbon off-shoot company, taking a 5% stake in Wildlife Works Carbon, with a seat on the management committee.

It all sounds great, but what does it really mean?

This morning, looking at pictures of Kate Middleton in the black and white lace Alice Temperley gown she wore for her first royal film premiere yesterday (Steven Speilberg’s War Horse), I was struck by the fact that it seems the Duchess of Cambridge has decided to stick to British designers for dress-up. There’s an interesting choice here.

Getty Images

Michelle Obama is given a lot of credit and attention for the way she has, and does, use fashion to communicate a certain independence and openness and exhuberance, but I think the Duchess is turning out to be just as canny a sartorial operator. It’s just that we are so focused on the dresses themselves we don’t see the larger diplomatic picture.

After all, though the Duchess’ dress code ranges widely during the day, from Zara to Ralph Lauren to Erdem, when it comes to evening gowns the biggies have been by Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen, Jenny Packham, and, now, Ms Temperley — Brits all. If you think about the relative paparazzi attention accorded to gowns over day dresses, and the cost of the former versus the latter, the numbers of the first are much bigger than the second.

British Fashion Awards 2011 - London. Sarah Burton with the Designer of the Year award. Credit: Ian West/PA Wire

Sarah Burton, Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards 2011. Ian West/PA Wire

Take a wild guess who won the designer of the year award at the British Fashion Awards last night. Yup, it was Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen. A well deserved win, given her acclaimed royal wedding dress and the sensitive way in which she has interpreted Alexander McQueen’s legacy, but not really a surprise. It was the first of many not-really-a-surprises at the awards, held in London’s Savoy hotel, which is probably a good thing, indicating that there is a consensus behind which British names are ones to be confident about.

Mary Katrantzou, who won the Emerging Talent – Womenswear award, is fast becoming a highlight – if not the highlight – of London Fashion Week. Not only are her bold and unusual prints arresting, they are also tailored to be highly wearable and fairly commercial. The question of when a designer is no longer deemed to be emerging can be a problematic one though; there’s often no clear moment when they become – like a butterfly from a chrysalis – fully formed.

It’s November — which in magazine calendar-speak means December issues, which in turn means Best-Dressed Lists. Yahoo! Whoop-dee-doo. Who makes the cut?

First out of the blocks is Harper’s Bazaar UK, and guess who tops the list? Ok, well, the headline kind of gives it away.

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Yes, Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, is perhaps the most unsurprising choice ever. Indeed, I would argue I could have predicted this in January, before she had even embarked on her Alexander McQueen/Erdem/Amanda Wakeley (that’s a Wakeley dress from last week, left) journey into the public eye. Because really, let’s be honest: best-dressed lists are not just about being best-dressed, and the Duchess isn’t the best dressed woman in the country.

Best-dressed lists, at least as they currently exist, are about selling — magazines and clothes — and the Duchess is, arguably, the best-dressed young royal. Or the best twenty-something figurehead who mixes high street and designer. Or maybe the best dressed for her complicated, ill-defined role.

If you don’t know Nicola Formichetti, aka the artist formerly known as Lady Gaga’s stylist, you will very soon.

Getty Images

He has plans for world domination. Note I didn’t say fashion world domination. He’s gone way beyond that.

Aside from his post creating the ever-more-extreme Gaga look with exciting things, such as meat dresses and faux horns, Mr Formichetti is also the creative director of Thierry Mugler (his second collection will bow in October) and he recently told the Milk studios blog he was going to launch his own brand next year. Meanwhile, next month he will open a pop-up shop during New York Fashion Week to sell some Gaga-inspired stuff as well as clothes by young Chinese designers. Oh, and he’s still doing magazine shoots.

It had to happen, I suppose. After the huge-public-love-fest associated with the Kate Middleton/Prince William wedding, and the corresponding publicity and sales boost it delivered to many associated fashion brands, from Alexander McQueen to Launer, maker of the Queen’s buttercup handbag, it seems every other English designer is hoping a royal nuptial association might have a similar knock-on effect.

Zara Phillips and Mike Tindall

Zara Phillips and Mike Tindall - - Getty Images

Consider, for example, the following announcement I received from the PR for Cad and the Dandy, the tailor making Mike Tindall’s outfits for his wedding tomorrow to Zara Phillips (for those not as au fait with royal connections as, say, Hello! Magazine, the author helpfully points them out) :

“England rugby star Mike Tindall will claim his Royal bride – Zara Phillips (the Queen’s granddaughter) – clad in a classic black barathea morning suit fashioned by London bespoke tailors, Cad and the Dandy, from Huddersfield cloth….Mr Tindall’s tailors have revealed that the groom, the fathers of the bride and bridegroom, as well as the ushers will all be dressed to impress in complementary Huddersfield cloth suits at the wedding…The cloth is being supplied by premier English cloth merchants, Dugdale Brothers. ‘It is going to be an elegant affair, just like the ‘other’ Royal wedding in April,’ said James Sleater… ‘We’ll make sure Mike cuts a dashing figure in front of all his new Royal relations.’”

Neat-o!

Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, wore Alexander McQueen again to the royal couple’s “hotly anticipated” black tie BAFTA dinner in L.A. As a super-secret dress choice, it was a little anti-climatic compared to the wedding reveal, but as a choice that could have meaningful repercussions for McQueen the business, it was pretty significant.

After all, you know the rule: once (the wedding) could be a fluke; twice (the sailor dress in Canada) is a coincidence; but three times (last night’s gown) makes a trend. And the winds of trend are indicating that the newest, most-photographed, royal family member has settled on McQueen as the brand that will define her style.

Since this is a royal wedding, every little bit of the royal wedding dress actually has symbolic meaning, and roots in different parts of British industry. For those interested in the specifics – and what businesses may benefit from their involvement – here’s this from Clarence House:

The design

The lace appliqué for the bodice and skirt was hand-made by the Royal School of Needlework, based at Hampton Court Palace.  The lace design was hand-engineered (appliquéd) using the Carrickmacross lace-making technique, which originated in Ireland in the 1820s.  Individual flowers have been hand-cut from lace and hand-engineered onto ivory silk tulle to create a unique and organic design, which incorporates the rose, thistle, daffodil and shamrock.

Hand-cut English lace and French Chantilly lace has been used throughout the bodice and skirt, and has been used for the underskirt trim.  With laces coming from different sources, much care was taken to ensure that each flower was the same colour.  The dress is made with ivory and white satin gazar.  The skirt echoes an opening flower, with white satin gazar arches and pleats.  The train measures two metres 70 centimetres.  The ivory satin bodice, which is narrowed at the waist and padded at the hips, draws on the Victorian tradition of corsetry and is a hallmark of Alexander McQueen’s designs.  The back is finished with 58 gazar and organza covered buttons fastened by Rouleau loops.  The underskirt is made of silk tulle trimmed with Cluny lace.

So the answer is in: Sarah Burton (left) did indeed make Kate Middleton’s wedding dress. A major British brand for a new British royal.

The dress is very reminiscent of the gown Grace Kelly wore to marry Prince Rainier: a tight lace overlay and long arms over a white bodice and big skirt. Given the way that dress is still considered a bridal triumph, it was a wise aesthetic to follow: timeless, and elegant, and evocative of a royal who never once was considered less than a fairytale. It’s not very McQueen in style, but I guess that’s the point: it’s by a brand, but not of the brand. Rather, it is of history.

Material World

with Vanessa Friedman

About this blog About Vanessa Blog guide
Vanessa Friedman's blog deals with the fashion/luxury industry from both a corporate and consumer point of view, as well as the subject of dress.



Vanessa FriedmanVanessa has been the FT’s fashion editor since 2003, and is based in New York, though she lived in London for 12 years.
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