Tag: Bernard Arnault

Getty Images

After a year of rumour and speculation, Dior has finally confirmed that Raf Simons, the fashion darling recently canonised after his abrupt firing as creative director of Jil Sander, has been handed the keys to the house as artistic director of women’s wear and accessories – just over a year after former Dior creative director John Galliano was handed his walking papers after an alleged anti-Semitic incident.

The appointment will put an end not just to the constant gossip about who might be getting the job, but to suggestions that perhaps the whole concept of a creative director is outmoded. By choosing a high-profile professional, if a quiet personality, Dior, and its chairman, Bernard Arnault, have signaled their belief in having a strong singular point of view at a global brand.

Time magazine has made its first foray into the world of best-dressed lists by releasing its own “All-Time 100 Fashion Icons” list, presumably in an effort to support its recently re-launched “Style and Design” issue.

The criteria, as stated, is “most influential”. This is fair enough, though vague: influential over who? The masses? The industry? International? The US? It’s unclear. The timeline begins in 1923, the year of the magazine’s birth. Again, fine. Fashion as we know it largely began then too (though it means Charles Frederick Worth is not on the list). It includes designers, brands, muses, photographers, models, editors and stylists — a good mix. The problem is in the seemingly random nature of the final choice.

Bernard Arnault, LVMH chieftain, yesterday became the first luxury CEO to dare predict 2012 was going to be as good for the seemingly recession-proof industry as 2011 and 2010. Way to put himself out there!

The occasion was the release of LVMH’s 2011 annual results. Specifically, Mr Arnault said he was “fairly confident” about growth in 2012, which may not seem like a wholehearted rave, but compared to what I’ve heard from every other luxe CEO qualifies as super-positive.

Happy 2012 to everyone — hope you had a good holiday.

Don’t know about you, but I’m finding it a somewhat surreal re-entry, partly because not much seems to have happened in the fashion world — the real world has chugged on — so it feels a bit like time has stood still.

Partly, because as we all go back to work the Iowa caucuses begin, and Republican politics are weirdly Magritte-esque at the moment (ceci n’est pas un politician); and partly because of something I just read, in my first non-Canadian newspaper in 10 days.

Today my colleague Andrew Edgecliffe-Johnson has a story about ex-P&G marketing guru Jim Stengel in which Mr Stengel lists his top 50 brands of the past decade (out of 50,000) as judged by performance, consumer loyalty, and growth. These included the expected names like Apple, Starbucks, Coka and Amazon, as well as some less expected. The only fashion/luxury brands that make the list are Calvin Klein, Diesel, Hermès, Hugo Boss, and Louis Vuitton. Vente-privée, Zappos, and Zara are also there, but arguably these are actually mass consumer brands.

Surprised? How about now: Mr Stengel attributes their success largely to four factors, one of which is CEOs who are “artist-businessmen”.

Here is a Christmas wish, courtesy of Diane von Furstenberg, who issued it during a conversation with me on Friday: Bernard Arnault should take his place as the elder statesman of fashion (after all, he pretty much invented it as an industry) and solve the fashion week date problem once and for all.

Consider, after all, the latest development in what has been a multi-month brouhaha over the timing of the big fashion weeks. Just days after France’s Chambre Syndicale announced it was mad that the CFDA (which manages NY fashion week) and the Camera Nazionale (which manages Milan) had not consulted it about the show dates tussle next September, and it was not agreeing to anything (I’m paraphrasing here), the same Chambre Syndicale also announced it was welcoming Giambattista Valli, an Italian, as a fully-fledged member of that most elite (and French) fashion group, the couture.

In one canny manoeuvre it thus demonstrated its:

1) willingness to embrace Italians who work with it (instead of ignoring it); and

2) position as the hautest of the haute — the table where everyone, even the non-French, wants a place. Nice bit of territory-marking, don’t you think?

Bernard Arnault.

Bernard Arnault. Image by Getty.

Today WWD heralded LVMH supremo Bernard Arnault as its Newsmaker of the Year, thanks to his:

1. Bulgari deal (the biggest ever in LVMH history)
2. Relaunch of a new leather house (Moynat)
3. Shake-up of his exec ranks (he just named Michael Burke, CEO of Fendi, as CEO of Bulgari, moved his son Antoine from Vuitton to Berluti, plus announced that Yves Carcelle would retire and be replaced by a Danone exec)
4. His willingness to let Dior be designer-less until he found the right person to replace ex-creative-director John Galliano – who was fired in March.

Generally, I agree with the choice, mostly because of Arnault’s smarts in taking advantage of other luxury brands’ scardey-cat timidity in the face of the economic crisis (they see consumer slowdown; he sees opportunity to grab market share). My only question is about reason number four. I think that’s becoming less an indicator of self-confidence than a problem.

Go away for a week in July when things are supposed to be on a restful downward slump post-men’s wear, pre-collections and couture, and what happens? Action!

  • Kenzo has appointed a new design team: Humberto Leon and Carol Lim of US high hipster retailer Opening Ceremony to replace Antonio Marras
  • Harvey Weinstein and Sarah Jessica Parker have disengaged from Halston entirely
  • Bernard Arnault has given an interview to Newsweek announcing the end of the “star designer”

If I was a paranoid conspiracy theorist, which I am not of course, I might see these as related, the first two proving the last: good merchants, if not famous ones, know how to move product. This is the approach that LVMH, which owns Kenzo, seems to be exploring with Lim and Leon: stars do not, no matter how famous (SJP’s appointment as creative director, despite her papp-happy factor, could not save Halston), so why care about star designers (Arnault Q.E.D)?

Tom Ford

Tom Ford -- Getty Images

The Time magazine list of the 100 most influential people in the world is out and guess what: there’s only ONE fashion person on it: Tom Ford.

Guess the industry isn’t nearly as important as it thinks it is.

Except…except. It kind of depends how you define “fashion.” Many of the other electees, for example, are influential partly because of what they wear: Michelle Obama, for example; Kate Middelton; Blake Lively.

Michelle Obama

Michelle Obama -- Getty Images

 

Arguably, their “influence” has as much to do with their ability to communicate via style as anything else, especially in the latter two cases (what else do we know of Ms Middleton, after all? Google her, and it’s all about her recent shopping spree and how she will wear her hair on her wedding day.)

Unfortunately, however, Time isn’t talking about why they picked the people they picked; instead, each listing is accompanied by a hagiography authored by a friend.

 

Kate Middleton

Kate Middleton -- Getty Images

For example, Tom Ford is lauded by actress Rita Wilson for his manners and his tendency to wear a three-piece suit during filming, as opposed to the fact that when he relaunched his womens’ wear line he did it under the aegis of a fight against the internet-inspired fashion tide towards all-access to clothes and shows. This decision to go against the grain was presumably the reason for his inclusion in the Time list, though I’m not convinced this has sparked “dialogue and dissent and sometimes even revolution” (all that Time will say about its criteria).

Hermès has released an annoucement noting they have received “an expression of interest from potential buyers in its 45 % stake in the Jean-Paul Gaultier company. Discussions have been initiated.”

I find this logical (at least on their part) for a few reasons:

1)      Mr. Gaultier was very close to Jean-Louis Dumas, the charismatic ex-CEO and artistic director of the group who was instrumental in building the family company into a global brand who died last year. It was Jean-L0uis Dumas who has originally bought the stake in JPG the company and who in 2003 asked JPG to be the womens’ wear designer for Hermès. It’s unclear how close Mr Gaultier was to anyone else in the family.

Yet another one of Bernard Arnault’s designers is leaving his empire, although at least this time it’s not under a cloud.

Paul Helbers, who has been director of Louis Vuitton men’s wear for the last five years, is moving on. Specifically, says the announcement from Vuitton,  he is “taking back his freedom in order to realize new projects.”

Material World

with Vanessa Friedman

About this blog About Vanessa Blog guide
Vanessa Friedman's blog deals with the fashion/luxury industry from both a corporate and consumer point of view, as well as the subject of dress.



Vanessa FriedmanVanessa has been the FT’s fashion editor since 2003, and is based in New York, though she lived in London for 12 years.
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