Tag: Burberry

Things are heating up on the luxury front. Yesterday I was talking to Ulrik Garde Due, chief executive of Danish silver brand Georg Jensen, who confirmed that the stories about their private equity owners, Axcel, considering their exit strategy after 11 years were true. They have hired Rothschild and begun talks with potential buyers.

Meanwhile, Smythson, the leather and stationary group, has just lured Andy Janowski, Burberry’s former COO and senior vice-president of supply chain (now, that’s a sexy title), over to their side to mastermind the brand’s expansion.

Get ready: the heritage accessories brands are on the move!

Luxury brands from PPR to LVMH may have announced more banner results this month, but according to a new report from UK luxury consultancy Ledbury Research, their CEOs may be a lot more worried about the industry’s prospects in 2012 than they are letting on.

The study, which tracked “CEO Outlook” in 25 luxury group CEOs from the abovementioned groups to Starwood, Saks, Remy Cointreau and Netjets over the last two years, found a definite drop in optimism in recent months. Check out their chart!

Ledbury Research

Ooooh. Look at that descending line (the vertices are, obviously time underneath and optimism on the side). Scary.

When I called to discuss this, however, James Lawson, a Ledbury director, said the report “is not designed to be an exercise in fear-mongering, just an indication that perhaps we should keep an eye on things.”

“Everyone knows the 2010/11 bounceback was much stronger than generally expected, so there is this nervousness about what could happen in the future that no one really wants to talk about.” But he does!

He sited statements like the following as evidence:

Anyone else noticed that these days you can’t blink an eye without someone – a designer, blogger, brand – announcing they have just “curated” some on-line content?

Christopher Bailey, Burberry chief creative officer, “curated” the music that was the background of their recent sunglasses campaign. Frida Giannini, Gucci creative director, “curated” the content of the Gucci iPhone app. This has gotten so ubiquitous, Fast Company just posted a piece entitled “Content curators are the new superheros of the web”.

But here’s what I can’t help but wonder: isn’t this simply a new word for “editor”? And aren’t both terms being devalued – to the detriment of the consumer?

And so yet more proof lands in the in-box that people are still buying luxury – and this time I’m not talking about the products. I’m talking about stocks.

Hot on the heels of the revelation that Qatar’s sovereign wealth fund has bought a 5% stake in jeweler Tiffany comes the news that luggage maker Tumi’s value was up by over 50% after their IPO yesterday raised $338m.

Tumi is an interesting case. While Tiffany is a high-gloss luxury name with an element of cultural currency that gives an enduring boost to its brand equity (thanks in large part to Truman Capote and Audrey Hepburn), and is widely regarded as having Burberry-like potential across the globe, Tumi’s allure is slightly less obvious.

It in itself is not a particularly luxurious product – it’s known primarily for its black indestructible bags, though it is currently engaged in a push to make its products more fashionable – but it has a deep and powerful relationship with the luxury industry, because so many of those involved in the latter own cases made by the former. And though you could say the element of luxury attached to their brand is the luxury of not having to replace your suitcase because it will last forever, I think it has more to do with luxury-by-association.

Every fashion season, for example, when I get off the plane in Milan and Paris, I would say easily over 50% of the bags on the luggage carousel are Tumi. The fashion/celebrity flock totes them for travel with the same dependability they hang the latest It bag over their shoulders or on their arms, and the brand has unquestionably – and quantifiably – benefited from the halo effect.

Aquascutum show at London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2012. Image by Getty

Aquascutum show at London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2012. Image by Getty

“Due to unforeseen circumstances the Aquascutum autumn/winter 2012 press day has been cancelled until further notice.”

That was the email that went to the fashion press yesterday, ahead of news that the British label has gone into administration. To be blunt, the autumn issues of glossy magazines aren’t going to collapse if stylists can’t get their hands on an Aquascutum trench to feature in their shoots. The wheels of fashion aren’t going to stop turning.

However, while Aquascutum isn’t one of the labels that shape the style landscape, like a Prada, or a major advertiser, like Armani, because there are few major British designer labels, when one is under threat it’s a big deal.

Today sees the arrival of Burberry’s new aviator-style eyewear, and a new video from UK band One Night Only. Coincidence? Not likely.

Burberry

The video, commissioned by the fashion brand, was available first on Burberry’s facebook page and then iTunes, and features front man George Craig modelling — you guessed it — Burberry eyewear! It’s the first in a series of four such band releases for the brand, the others being: Marika Hackman, Daydream Club, and Life in Film. Complete with shades, could this be the first step down a slippery slope of fashion moving in to more formal production roles?

After all, five songs is practically enough for a Burberry album, especially when combined with the brand’s first foray into this space, with last year’s “Rose Unplugged at Abbey Road for Burberry” from The Feeling.

David Cameron and Samantha Cameron disembark (Getty)

There is a tendency, among political leaders, especially of the UK-US variety, to engage in covert sartorial diplomacy during state visits; in effect for the visitor to mirror the dress of the visitee in order to suggest a discreet sort of understanding of the agenda — at least as far as photo ops go.

 

Such was the case when Gordon Brown first came to see Barack Obama, for example (both did that dark suit,blue tie thing), and such was often the case with Tony Blair and George W. Bush. Yesterday, however, when David Cameron showed up for his current US trip, the changed nature of the relationship seemed to be reflected in his wardrobe. One day in, there’s been zero matchy-matchy.

 

See, for example, the British deplaning, for which Mr Cameron sported a purple tie — a colour yet to be seen on the president, and one that seemed particularly significant, given that a high percentage of the time Mr Cameron favours blue ties, which is also the primary colour of President Obama’s ties. Thus, for Mr Cameron to choose not to wear blue can be read as a conscious declaration of independence. (After all, the deplaning moment is an enormous and unavoidable photo op. It sends signals; see, for example, Mrs Cameron’s choice to fly her national brand flags via a Burberry trench.)

 

Adele in Giorgio Armani at the Grammy Awards (AP)

The perils of betting on celebrity dressing were potently illustrated at the Grammy awards. The night’s superstar, Adele, wore — wait for it — Giorgio Armani to accept her six gongs, before changing into Clements Ribeiro for her performance and Burberry for her finale.

I say “perils” because yesterday, as I made the rounds of New York Fashion Week, I heard two separate design camps claim she would be wearing them.

The first time was at the Zac Posen show, when an insider mentioned that, fingers crossed, Adele was going to be wearing one of their dresses. It wasn’t 100 per cent sure, she said, but it looked good.

Posen is a red-carpet favourite, and both Reese Witherspoon and Elle MacPherson wore him to the Golden Globes last month, so this seemed plausibe.

In the race to have the most connected catwalk — a race that has seen
Burberry sell direct-from-runway and Tweet each look as it appears, Dolce
and Gabbana live-stream the audience and the backstage preparations, and
every brand with a Facebook page host its show in real time — KCD, the
global publicity powerhouse, may have just trumped everyone. Today they are
announcing the “Digital Fashion Shows”, aka an “innovative information
delivery system”. Say that ten times fast.

For an industry with its own calendar, that runs six months to a year or more ahead of the norm, fashion in general has proven idiotically obtuse about technology. After being famously late to the etail and social media party, and then engaging in a headlong rush to the virtual when it was clear where consumer tides were going, now they are once again dragging their feet when it comes to mobile applications, as a new study from digital think tank L2 shows.

Assessing 100 luxury brands from retail to hospitality, beauty, fashion, and watches and jewellery, on their engagement with mobile platforms (iPhones, Android, tablets), the report reveals that retailers are by far the most advanced (Sephora and Nordstrom are numbers one and two, followed by Macy’s and Net a Porter), then hospitality, with fashion and watches and jewellery trailing far behind. The first fashion brand, Ralph Lauren, comes in at 12, while of the bottom 10 m-“feeble” brands, six are fashion.

Material World

with Vanessa Friedman

About this blog About Vanessa Blog guide
Vanessa Friedman's blog deals with the fashion/luxury industry from both a corporate and consumer point of view, as well as the subject of dress.



Vanessa FriedmanVanessa has been the FT’s fashion editor since 2003, and is based in New York, though she lived in London for 12 years.
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