Tag: Calvin Klein

Happy 2012 to everyone — hope you had a good holiday.

Don’t know about you, but I’m finding it a somewhat surreal re-entry, partly because not much seems to have happened in the fashion world — the real world has chugged on — so it feels a bit like time has stood still.

Partly, because as we all go back to work the Iowa caucuses begin, and Republican politics are weirdly Magritte-esque at the moment (ceci n’est pas un politician); and partly because of something I just read, in my first non-Canadian newspaper in 10 days.

Today my colleague Andrew Edgecliffe-Johnson has a story about ex-P&G marketing guru Jim Stengel in which Mr Stengel lists his top 50 brands of the past decade (out of 50,000) as judged by performance, consumer loyalty, and growth. These included the expected names like Apple, Starbucks, Coka and Amazon, as well as some less expected. The only fashion/luxury brands that make the list are Calvin Klein, Diesel, Hermès, Hugo Boss, and Louis Vuitton. Vente-privée, Zappos, and Zara are also there, but arguably these are actually mass consumer brands.

Surprised? How about now: Mr Stengel attributes their success largely to four factors, one of which is CEOs who are “artist-businessmen”.

I had a very interesting conversation with a Calvin Kleiner this morning as we were waiting for the company’s pre-collection show to start. He had just come back from their latest store opening — at a mall in Toronto.

“Toronto?” quoth I, dubiously. “Is that a big market for Calvin Klein?”

Now before anyone gets huffy about this, I would just like to say: I am married to a Canadian and spend many happy weeks a year in Canada — in fact, I’ll be there soon — but in all the conversations I have in my working life about fabulous luxury/fashion markets, like it or not, the country rarely comes up. In fact, I can remember only one other time, a year ago, in a conversation with Luxottica when the execs said Canada was a very fashion-forward market for sunglasses.

But anyway, here’s what the Calvin Kleiner said: “It’s really, really successful. People spend so much time talking about China, and the BRICs, and Asia-Pacific, but Canada is ten times bigger a market for us than Vietnam. It’s really important — and growing.”

It’s true, when luxury brands bang on about opportunity in North America there is often an implicit assumption on the part of the listener that this means the United States. But maybe it really means Canada, which is clearly under-served (it may be a good market for CK, for example, but they still only have four stand-alone stores in the country).

Certainly, J Crew, which opened its first stand-alone store in Toronto in August, also reports very high demand and sales and I’ve been hearing lots of buzz about what Bonnie Brooks has been doing at the preppy basics department store megalith The Bay, with The Room, a high-end designer space. Plus of course, Joe Fresh, the Canadian more-accessible-Abercrombie, has now penetrated south of the border, in NY, to a fair amount of hoo-ha.

It’s something to keep an eye on, anyway. As is another emerging market where Louis Vuitton and Tiffany just opened with high hopes: Mongolia.

I kid you not.

Who is fashion week for?

The fact that this is a pressing question has suddenly become as clear as the plaid on a kilt thanks to British Vogue’s website, which today launched a new initiative: “Online Fashion Week.”

And what, you may ask, is “Online Fashion Week”?

It’s a B2C five-day event where designers offer special sales and products, show certain collections (christmas, pre-fall, spring/summer), and engage in “Twitter takeovers” by posting on the microblog site 24/7, the better to reach their consumers in the holiday shopping period. It is not particularly limited to UK designers (Chanel and Christian Louboutin are participating), though it is UK-heavy.

It is, in other words, a lot more like that after-hours shopping extravaganza, Fashion’s Night Out, than like what I consider the traditional NY/London/Milan/Paris Fashion Week, and it points to a growing schism in the fashion world.

Here is an rather interesting excerpt from Derek Lam’s show notes today:

“As prices for pure raw materials become more and more expensive; cotton, cashmere, merino wool, and silks prices have rose (sic) dramatically in the last two years, many of the mills have responded by mixing less precious yarns into the compositions….Cotton is combined with canepea, a fibre similar to linen…Silk poplin is woven with nylon to take a plain cloth and give it a washed and warm look….Viscose is added to silk twill….Cupro added to satin silk yarns….”

He said all this because he was into the design challenges raised by the new materials, but I’m passing it on because I’m into the price implications.

Tom Murry, Calvin Klein’s CEO, told me recently he thought clothes prices would rise 10 percent this year on the back of the cost of cotton — but this suggests Mr Lam may be an exception. What a leg up on the market that would give him!

Which companies will get a business bounce from last night’s Golden Globes? The pictures have been sent round the world, and will play out not just today, or throughout the week in various newspapers and weekly gossip mags, but for months as other glossies re-visit celebrity looks of the year. The free advertising is tantalising, and palpably effective — it drives consumers into stores — which is why it’s worth the brands giving away so many free clothes.

Michelle Williams

Michelle Williams - - Getty Images

Anyway, for what it’s worth, here are my top five women’s picks, followed by a note on men’s wear:

1. Valentino
The fact that both commentator and It girl Alexa Chung and young It actress Michelle Williams wore this brand solidifies its re-invention under designers Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri, and its re-directing from older euro society to the new generation of cool newsmakers.

Natalie Portman

Natalie Portman - - Getty Images

2. Viktor and Rolf
Dressing the Best Actress winner is always a coup, because the publicity is guaranteed, but their strapless empire waist column was also (for them) notably graceful, and demonstrates that the duo, who often treat catwalks like conceptual theatre, are more than capable of simple, elegant dressing, and thus longevity.

Olivia Wilde

Olivia Wilde - - Getty images

3. Marchesa
Olivia Wilde looked like a princess, and there are many women out there who share that fantasy. This brand owns fairy tale dressing.

Claire Danes

Claire Danes - - Getty Images

4. Calvin Klein
With Claire Danes as best actress in a TV mini-series, they proved pink can be chic instead of sweet, and re-asserted their ownership of the minimalist aesthetic, which has been co-opted for the last two years by Céline.

5. Jenny Packham
The little-known (outside of the UK) British designer should get a major international boost from Sandra Bullock’s appearance in her filigree dress (though Ms Bullock’s hair did not exactly help matters).

Sandra Bullock

Sandra Bullock - - Getty Images

Certainly, US department stores, the key to the broader American market, should sit up and take notice.

Now, as far as men go, here’s what’s interesting: though most female actresses insist on being the only person on the red carpet dressed by a certain designer, men seem to feel there’s comfort in numbers, and brands get to dress a whole host of guys. Gucci, for example, did nine, including James Franco, Robert Pattinson, Chris Evans and Ben Affleck, Burberry, seven, including Geoffrey Rush, guy Pearce, Ryan Seacrest, and Hugh Dancy; and Prada, eight guys, including David O. Russell, Jeremy Renner, Robert Downey Jr.

(The exception to this multi-man rule was Tom Ford, who dressed only Best Actor Colin Firth, but he had already announced his intentions to remain exclusive, so that’s not a surprise. More interesting was the fact that Julianne Moore, who walked the runway in Mr Ford’s super-secret show last September, wore Lanvin. But maybe she’s saving her Ford for the Oscars.)

I suppose it’s a question of who has more power when it comes to selling clothes — the actor or the brand — and the answer is different for men and women.

Anyway, for other opinions on who wore what best, I recommend checking out the FUG girls, Jezebel, and Fashionista’s live blog.

Luxury leaves 2010 on a high note. Most analysts see good things for 2011 – the folks at HSBC, noting the positive performance of watches and jewellery last month, even say: “It is hard to find industries with better fundamental prospects than luxury for 2011.”

Indeed, post-end-of-year auction on December 14, Christie’s reports they had “a record-breaking year for fine and rare watches” with an estimated “$91.2m in total sales – the highest annual total ever achieved for watches.” Meanwhile, Tom Murry, ceo of Calvin Klein, told me they were having a very good Christmas season, and plan to open double-digit stores next year, and Tamara Mellon, chief creative officer of Jimmy Choo, has world domination in mind, and plans to expand into ready-to-wear, watches, and jewellery, after launching mens’ shoes.

Fendi and Armani are pushing the brand extension boundary, moving beyond hotels and interiors to collaborate with Princess yachts, further creating the designer lifestyle.

As for the etail world, it continues to heat up as an investment prospect: hot on the heels of new VC money pouring into on-line men’s wear etailer Bonobos, Alex and Alexa, the children’s wear etailer, announced today it had secured £1.5m from MMC to expand internationally (they forecast turnover of $40m by 2014).

And just to bolster all this, Pantone, those colour people, announced the shade for 2011 is honeysuckle, which “emboldens us to face everyday troubles with verve and vigor. A dynamic reddish pink, Honeysuckle is encouraging and uplifting. It elevates our psyche beyond escape, instilling the confidence, courage and spirit to meet the exhaustive challenges that have become part of everyday life.” (Well, hooray. Given last year’s colour was turquoise, could this be the end of the blue power tie? That will be interesting to watch.) Maybe it will encourage more spending too. We’ll see in the new year.

Meanwhile, I’m off to the Canadian woods, where I plan to wear a skidoo suit that makes so much noise when I walk it scares away the coyotes. Talk to you in 2011.

Fashion designers get inspiration from all sorts of places: leaves (Valentino Garavani once told me the green in a dress he made came from some leaf he had picked up in Hyde Park and carried back to his atelier), true life stories (this season John Galliano made an entire collection about a 1920s con artist), and, occasionally, other designers.

Consider these two pictures:

(c) Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images for amfAR

(c) catwalking.com

The one of the left is Carine Roitfeld, editor of French Vogue, at a party in Cannes last May wearing a dress by Azzedine Alaia.

The other is from Riccardo Tisci’s spring/summer collection for Givenchy, shown yesterday. Ms Roitfeld is one of Mr Tisci’s “muses.” Clearly, leopard spots and mousseline skirts are in the air.

Meanwhile, in Milan last week, it seemed like half the designers had walked through the YSL retrospective held last March at the Petit Palais, and consciously or not, paid “homage” to the French designer on their runways. After the fifth teal/blue/black jumpsuit you see, and the sixth pink and orange combo, it’s hard not to see a pattern.

Whether this is a good or bad thing, however, is a matter of some dispute in the fashion world, and there’s a hard-to-define difference between being influenced by another designer and outright copying.

Still, Calvin Klein famously thought the only thing worse than being copied was not being copied at all, and professors at the University of Virginia and UCLA have argued vociferously that lack of intellectual property protection is actually good for the fashion world; it’s one of the motors that forces it to keep spinning.

Certainly, the High Street’s ability to publicise a high fashion design by making its own version is effective – though some brands just find it annoying. Meanwhile, Diane von Furstenberg, the CFDA and Senator Charles Schumer are all trying to get legislation enacted in the US to protect fashion houses, similar to what exists in Europe under the Community Design System. Though how effective that has been is debatable: “it’s true, your honour, I invented the dress!”

Maybe not. Even “I invented the yellow-chiffon-baby-doll-with-blue-stripe” is a hard sell.

Still, it’s such a contentious subject, Fordham Law School in New York saw opportunity, and just established the Fashion Law Institute. There’s potential employment opportunity in all this, I just know it.

Material World

with Vanessa Friedman

About this blog About Vanessa Blog guide
Vanessa Friedman's blog deals with the fashion/luxury industry from both a corporate and consumer point of view, as well as the subject of dress.



Vanessa FriedmanVanessa has been the FT’s fashion editor since 2003, and is based in New York, though she lived in London for 12 years.
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