Tag: Catherine Middleton

It’s November — which in magazine calendar-speak means December issues, which in turn means Best-Dressed Lists. Yahoo! Whoop-dee-doo. Who makes the cut?

First out of the blocks is Harper’s Bazaar UK, and guess who tops the list? Ok, well, the headline kind of gives it away.

Getty Images

Yes, Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, is perhaps the most unsurprising choice ever. Indeed, I would argue I could have predicted this in January, before she had even embarked on her Alexander McQueen/Erdem/Amanda Wakeley (that’s a Wakeley dress from last week, left) journey into the public eye. Because really, let’s be honest: best-dressed lists are not just about being best-dressed, and the Duchess isn’t the best dressed woman in the country.

Best-dressed lists, at least as they currently exist, are about selling — magazines and clothes — and the Duchess is, arguably, the best-dressed young royal. Or the best twenty-something figurehead who mixes high street and designer. Or maybe the best dressed for her complicated, ill-defined role.

Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, wore Alexander McQueen again to the royal couple’s “hotly anticipated” black tie BAFTA dinner in L.A. As a super-secret dress choice, it was a little anti-climatic compared to the wedding reveal, but as a choice that could have meaningful repercussions for McQueen the business, it was pretty significant.

After all, you know the rule: once (the wedding) could be a fluke; twice (the sailor dress in Canada) is a coincidence; but three times (last night’s gown) makes a trend. And the winds of trend are indicating that the newest, most-photographed, royal family member has settled on McQueen as the brand that will define her style.

Duchess of Cambridge

The Duchess of Cambridge -- Getty Images

Wardrobe diplomacy, aka the practice of a national leader (or leading representative) wearing clothes from the country they are visiting as a form of economic and cultural outreach, is back. Diane von Furstenberg just told me she had learned from the folks at Harrods and Selfridges that the Duchess of Cambridge had bought two of her dresses to take with her on her North American tour, which begins at the end of next week. DVF was very happy.

It’s a smart choice for the Duchess. It makes sense for her both aesthetically and politically. DVF’s famous wrap dress was the base upon which all the Issa and Reiss jersey dresses the Duchess has recently worn were built, after all; the original body-hugging yet covered-up line. Her dresses are also relatively reasonably priced, so the Duchess has fulfilled the brief of 1) staying within her own style; 2) staying within her own budget; and 3) subtly demonstrating that she is, indeed, paying her own way.

If the Obamas’ trip to the UK isn’t the most sartorially co-ordinated opening of a state visit in history, I’ll eat my Philip Treacy hat.

President Obama, Michelle Obama, Prince Philip and the Queen

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It looks like something straight out of Vogue: Queen Elizabeth II and Michelle Obama both in pastel florals (Mrs O’s is by American designer Barbara Tfank, a red carpet name), as if to re-affirm the shared interest in gardening that they reportedly bonded over during their first get-together in 2009, and the Duchess of Cornwall and her new daughter-in-law, the Duchess of Cambridge, in matching beige. The latter’s dress is by Reiss, the UK high street chain, suggesting she’s going to stick to her “people’s princess” you-can-get-the-look-too! style of dressing, even now that she’s officially part of the royal family. Prince Philip and President Obama even look as if they have matching burgundy ties!

The news that the strange and controversial Philip Treacy creation sported by Princess Beatrice at the wedding of Prince William and Catherine Middleton has been sold on eBay for £81,000 is both generally shocking (although very nice for UNICEF and Children in Crisis, which will share the proceeds) and shockingly educational.

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This is just above the price raised at auction by the lacy — what? Tube? Stretch skirt worn as a dress? — that supposedly caught Prince William’s eye when Ms Middleton modelled it in a charity fashion show at the University of St Andrews (that went for a whopping £78,000).

So is bad fashion worth more in historical terms than good fashion?

Certainly, the very tasteful Valentino suit worn by Princess Beatrice to the wedding would never have sold for the same sum as that…what exactly was it? Pair of antlers? It looks to me like a curvy ribbon atop a commemorative plate worn as a forehead protector.

Since this is a royal wedding, every little bit of the royal wedding dress actually has symbolic meaning, and roots in different parts of British industry. For those interested in the specifics – and what businesses may benefit from their involvement – here’s this from Clarence House:

The design

The lace appliqué for the bodice and skirt was hand-made by the Royal School of Needlework, based at Hampton Court Palace.  The lace design was hand-engineered (appliquéd) using the Carrickmacross lace-making technique, which originated in Ireland in the 1820s.  Individual flowers have been hand-cut from lace and hand-engineered onto ivory silk tulle to create a unique and organic design, which incorporates the rose, thistle, daffodil and shamrock.

Hand-cut English lace and French Chantilly lace has been used throughout the bodice and skirt, and has been used for the underskirt trim.  With laces coming from different sources, much care was taken to ensure that each flower was the same colour.  The dress is made with ivory and white satin gazar.  The skirt echoes an opening flower, with white satin gazar arches and pleats.  The train measures two metres 70 centimetres.  The ivory satin bodice, which is narrowed at the waist and padded at the hips, draws on the Victorian tradition of corsetry and is a hallmark of Alexander McQueen’s designs.  The back is finished with 58 gazar and organza covered buttons fastened by Rouleau loops.  The underskirt is made of silk tulle trimmed with Cluny lace.

So the answer is in: Sarah Burton (left) did indeed make Kate Middleton’s wedding dress. A major British brand for a new British royal.

The dress is very reminiscent of the gown Grace Kelly wore to marry Prince Rainier: a tight lace overlay and long arms over a white bodice and big skirt. Given the way that dress is still considered a bridal triumph, it was a wise aesthetic to follow: timeless, and elegant, and evocative of a royal who never once was considered less than a fairytale. It’s not very McQueen in style, but I guess that’s the point: it’s by a brand, but not of the brand. Rather, it is of history.

Prince William and Kate Middleton

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RWD minus 1 and slowly the sartorial chips are falling into place.

Anna Valentine, of Robinson Valentine, will reportedly make Camilla’s dress (no surprise; they made her wedding dress).

Alberta Ferretti has announced that they are making Chelsy Davy’s dress: “For the ceremony she will be wearing an aqua green bias reverse satin dress. This will be teamed with an aqua green faille silk jacket with a deep boat neck and a knot detail. For the evening party she will be wearing a one shoulder midnight blue crepe satin gown with a cut out detail on the back”. This is interesting; Ferretti is Italian, not necessarily the most politic choice for a maybe-girlfriend of Prince Harry, which suggests either Ms Davy doesn’t care about protocol, even the unwritten kind, or she’s not that interested in being part of The Firm.

Westminster Abbey

Westminster Abbey -- Getty Images

Yesterday, as it happens, was not just RWD minus two, but – what a coincidence! – World Intellectual Property day, as well as the day of an “anti-counterfeiting summit” held annually by US Harper’s Bazaar magazine.

This made for an odd juxtaposition to me, as lately I can’t seem to escape stories in which various clothing manufacturers say, publicly, how fast they are going to rip off the royal wedding dress as soon as Kate Middelton takes her first steps down the aisle at Westminster Abbey, and they can actually tell what she is wearing. Isn’t that treading close to said counterfeit line?

Say that ten times fast. Or how about this: RWD minus 3. OMG! OMG!

Just kidding. I had an interesting lunch the other day with Jason Wu, a young Taiwanese-American designer in the uptown mode who shot to fame in 2009 when he designed the one-shouldered white gown Michelle Obama wore to the Presidential inaugural balls.

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Anyway, Mr Wu had some interesting observations about the experience, and advice for whomever ends up designing Catherine Middleton’s dress. (Btw, he also thinks it’s going to be a dressmaker type, as opposed to a big fashion brand, given the Princess-to-be’s past style choices, so this is partly predicated on that assumption.)

His main suggestion? Just say no. To everything.

Material World

with Vanessa Friedman

About this blog About Vanessa Blog guide
Vanessa Friedman's blog deals with the fashion/luxury industry from both a corporate and consumer point of view, as well as the subject of dress.



Vanessa FriedmanVanessa has been the FT’s fashion editor since 2003, and is based in New York, though she lived in London for 12 years.
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