Tag: CFDA

Here is a Christmas wish, courtesy of Diane von Furstenberg, who issued it during a conversation with me on Friday: Bernard Arnault should take his place as the elder statesman of fashion (after all, he pretty much invented it as an industry) and solve the fashion week date problem once and for all.

Consider, after all, the latest development in what has been a multi-month brouhaha over the timing of the big fashion weeks. Just days after France’s Chambre Syndicale announced it was mad that the CFDA (which manages NY fashion week) and the Camera Nazionale (which manages Milan) had not consulted it about the show dates tussle next September, and it was not agreeing to anything (I’m paraphrasing here), the same Chambre Syndicale also announced it was welcoming Giambattista Valli, an Italian, as a fully-fledged member of that most elite (and French) fashion group, the couture.

In one canny manoeuvre it thus demonstrated its:

1) willingness to embrace Italians who work with it (instead of ignoring it); and

2) position as the hautest of the haute — the table where everyone, even the non-French, wants a place. Nice bit of territory-marking, don’t you think?

In response to DVF’s “open letter to the fashion community” on Monday about the 2012 September fashion week dates comes a response letter today from Mario Boselli, head of the Camera Nazionale, in which he explains his side of the story. The full text is reproduced at the end of this blog, but the parts that stick out for me are the following:

1. It was actually addressed to me, which means every one of us members of the “global fashion community” has gotten a similar missive, which takes serious planning; and

2. The following quote: “we must rebut the accusation leveled at CNMI by New York and London of not having complied with the agreement. Such an accusation, besides showing an arrogant and aggressive attitude towards Milan, was supported by unfair arguments aimed at — unilaterally –imposing decisions that had not been agreed upon.”

It may have been sunny outside in New York and parts of Europe for the past week, but behind the fashion scenes it was seriously stormy, as Steven Kolb, Council of Fashion Designers of America president, and his counterpart in Milan, Mario Boselli, president of the Camera Nazionale, battled via email over when next year’s fashion weeks would take place. Now Diane von Furstenberg has stepped in to calm everyone and put it all in perspective via an “open letter to the fashion community.” The essence is: fashion is global (big), so let’s stop acting local (small).

But is this true? The events of the last week seem to put this into question.

We all know fashion folks are unabashed about borrowing good ideas when they see them (how do you think trends happen?), but this doesn’t just apply to cut and colour: it works for money-spinning strategies too!

The Council of Fashion Designers of America is taking a page out of the British Fashion Council’s playbook and is bringing 10 of the past CFDA/US Vogue Fashion Fund finalists to Paris Fashion Week. The finalists will be able to use showrooms to help them “expand their international business and increase their presence outside of the United States,” according to Steven Kolb, CFDA chief executive.

Summer is over and it’s back to school! Which, in New York at least, always happens to coincide with back to fashion week! Which makes getting through September, for fashion moms, pretty much like getting through the straits of Messina: Scylla on one side, Charybdis on the other.

Not to complain or anything. Still, at the dinner table last night we discussed what our children were looking forward to at school, and it got me thinking about what I was looking forward to this fashion season, which begins in NY on Thursday. Here are what I expect to be the winning discussion topics over the champagne cocktails:

Marc Jacobs collection

Marc Jacobs collection - - image by Catwalking.com

The CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America) nominations have been announced, and guess what: just 16 nominees are vying for the six big awards. Makes the options looks pretty thin, especially given the fact that there were 100 plus shows during New York Fashion Week.

Kind of makes you wonder about those other designers: were they not any good? 16 out of 100 is not a great success ratio.

But as it is, I think certain bets can be laid. For example: when it comes to women’s wear, the nominees are Marc Jacobs, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler, and Alexander Wang.

Material World

with Vanessa Friedman

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Vanessa Friedman's blog deals with the fashion/luxury industry from both a corporate and consumer point of view, as well as the subject of dress.



Vanessa FriedmanVanessa has been the FT’s fashion editor since 2003, and is based in New York, though she lived in London for 12 years.
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