Tag: Christopher Bailey

Anyone else noticed that these days you can’t blink an eye without someone – a designer, blogger, brand – announcing they have just “curated” some on-line content?

Christopher Bailey, Burberry chief creative officer, “curated” the music that was the background of their recent sunglasses campaign. Frida Giannini, Gucci creative director, “curated” the content of the Gucci iPhone app. This has gotten so ubiquitous, Fast Company just posted a piece entitled “Content curators are the new superheros of the web”.

But here’s what I can’t help but wonder: isn’t this simply a new word for “editor”? And aren’t both terms being devalued – to the detriment of the consumer?

The other day I got a nice email informing me that Marigay McKee, formerly Harrods’ fashion and beauty director, had been promoted to “chief merchant officer,” a relatively new title in the luxury world as far as I can tell (and one not to be confused with that other CMO, chief marketing officer). But it’s one that, I think, reflects not just a titular promotion, but a systemic change in industry thinking. After all, in fashion what you put on top always reflects something bubbling up underneath.

Christopher Bailey.

Christopher Bailey. Image by Getty.

Along with the recently-invented CCO (chief creative officer, a nomination bestowed on Christopher Bailey at Burberry and, before she resigned, Tamara Mellon at Jimmy Choo), it elevates the creative side of the business to the same executive level as the corporate side, officially acknowledging the growing synergy between the two.

After all, these same individuals had all previously been, like Ms McKee, “directors” – creative directors, if not fashion and beauty directors – creative director itself being a title invented by Tom Ford, I believe, during his years at Gucci, to indicate his move beyond the traditional role of “designer” into “overseer of all creative things.”

Vogue editors gather for Japan FNO

Tomorrow is the beginning of what is being billed as the biggest Fashion’s Night Out (FNO) ever, although it’s more like Fashion’s Afternoon Out: a noon-9pm (Saturday) shopping extravaganza in Japan launched by an evening pre-shopping gala, with some of the proceeds going to benefit earthquake relief efforts. But that’s not the half of it.

Seventeen Vogue editors will be attending as boosters, more than have ever gathered in one place before, including marquee names like Anna Wintour (US Vogue), Franca Sozzani (Italian Vogue), Emmanuelle Alt (French Vogue) and Alexandra Shulman (British Vogue). Numerous international designers are flying in to make appearances, including Christopher Bailey, Roberto Cavalli, Lucien Pellat-Finet, Derek Lam, Peter Copping and Michael Kors. And over 400 stores are planning special party activities.

Well, Japan is an important fashion market. It deserves the FNO to end all FNOs!

Except, of course, it probably won’t be the FNO to end all FNOs. It will probably be the FNO that spurs yet more FNOs around the world, putting more pressure on designers and retailers to think of super-tweetable ideas to get attention and people into their stores. And thus it points up a certain uncomfortable paradox about the event.

I have learnt an important lesson: when it comes to fashion, be careful what you mock; last week’s inside joke is this week’s exciting new initiative.

After all, there I was a few days ago, giggling with a friend about the Kanye West show, saying “Why did he want to start a fashion line? He’s just a great singer; it would be like Karl Lagerfeld or Miuccia Prada wanting to be a rapper”, when, lo and behold, the information arrives: Burberry is releasing a single: “Rose Unplugged at Abbey Road for Burberry.”

Whadda I know, Daddy-o?

The Vanity Fair New Establishment 100 list has just been unveiled, and its criteria for picking “the 100 most influential” are increasingly impenetrable. I feel I can say this because it was sent to me with the proud announcement that “13 of the fashion industry’s top moguls and designers were named to the list.”

But while I understand the reasons behind, for example, choosing Facebook‘s Mark Zuckerberg and Steve Jobs to top the thing off, and even why Jamie Dimon and Lloyd Blankfein might make it on, the fact that John Galliano and Karl Lagerfeld are included, but Alber Elbaz of Lanvin (a brand that has just inked a deal to do a capsule collection with H&M, who hailed it as “one of the most influential brands of the 21st century) is not, has left me tangled up in my sleeves.

Material World

with Vanessa Friedman

About this blog About Vanessa Blog guide
Vanessa Friedman's blog deals with the fashion/luxury industry from both a corporate and consumer point of view, as well as the subject of dress.



Vanessa FriedmanVanessa has been the FT’s fashion editor since 2003, and is based in New York, though she lived in London for 12 years.
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