Tag: david cameron

Enter George Osborne, the UK chancellor, with the 2012 Budget in its little red box (at least symbolically). It strikes me that this photo op has to be one of the weirder moments in political imagineering.

George Osborne

George Osborne. Image by Getty

That little red case looks an awful lot like an old Coach handbag I used to have, and the whole bright grin and presentational pose lends a slightly surreal edge to an otherwise serious event. It effectively depicts an economic plan as an accessory, which may be true (metaphorically, you could argue it’s an important part of a complete governmental look) but more immediately it serves to highlight the way dress can be used before words even enter the picture. No pun intended.

 

So what of Mr Osborne’s look on budget day?

David Cameron and Samantha Cameron disembark (Getty)

There is a tendency, among political leaders, especially of the UK-US variety, to engage in covert sartorial diplomacy during state visits; in effect for the visitor to mirror the dress of the visitee in order to suggest a discreet sort of understanding of the agenda — at least as far as photo ops go.

 

Such was the case when Gordon Brown first came to see Barack Obama, for example (both did that dark suit,blue tie thing), and such was often the case with Tony Blair and George W. Bush. Yesterday, however, when David Cameron showed up for his current US trip, the changed nature of the relationship seemed to be reflected in his wardrobe. One day in, there’s been zero matchy-matchy.

 

See, for example, the British deplaning, for which Mr Cameron sported a purple tie — a colour yet to be seen on the president, and one that seemed particularly significant, given that a high percentage of the time Mr Cameron favours blue ties, which is also the primary colour of President Obama’s ties. Thus, for Mr Cameron to choose not to wear blue can be read as a conscious declaration of independence. (After all, the deplaning moment is an enormous and unavoidable photo op. It sends signals; see, for example, Mrs Cameron’s choice to fly her national brand flags via a Burberry trench.)

 

So, David Cameron has given an interview to the  British edition of Grazia magazine, in which he attempts to display his soft, feminine side by admitting that he finds Prime Minister’s Question Time an aggressive, testosterone-filled experience and he doesn’t like it. Awww. Pity party!

He might have been better served to sit down and take tea with Carlo Giordanetti, creative director of Montblanc, which is likewise engaged in a campaign to woo women. Its approach is a little subtler and more systemic however, or so Mr Giordanetti told me when I visited the New York boutique yesterday.

Princess Charlene, Prince Albert II of Monaco, Julie Andrews and Anne Hathaway at the launch of the Princess Grace de Monaco Collection launch. (Getty Images)

It centres on the new Princess Grace de Monaco collection, which includes jewellery (pink sapphire and diamond necklace and earring sets), watches (mother of pearl sprinkled with diamonds) and pens (gold crowned with diamonds and a pink sapphire drop) and will extend to a “softening” of the shop space. Though Montblanc says almost half its customers are already women buying for men or buying masculine watches and pens for themselves, the brand sees its growth partly focusing on women-friendly products (not men’s products that will make women look macho in a man’s world). Hence the Princess Grace collection, in which there is no gender confusion involved. I mean…it has the word “Princess” in its name.

At the eurozone summit in Brussels yesterday there may have been vociferous debate about the sovereign debt crisis, but on one subject at least there was surprising unanimity: what to wear to telegraph your feelings.

From Angela Merkel, German chancellor, to David Cameron, UK prime minister, José Manuel Barroso, European Commission president, and Herman Van Rompuy, European Council president, and more, the conference room was a sartorial sea of blue as far as the eye could see.

James and Rupert Murdoch appear before the Culture, Media and Sport select committee

PA Wire

So: for Rupert Murdoch, dark blue pinstripes, white shirt, blue tie with small pattern. For James, blue suit, white shirt, light blue tie with diagonal stripes.

If I had bet on what they would wear to their appearance before the select committee, I would have done pretty well in the “what will the Murdochs wear?” sweepstakes. And Murdoch Snr’s pinstripes are pretty subtle.

As a look that says “the buck stops here but I made an oversight boo-boo” it’s not bad. There’s the Tory blue of the tie, the purity and crispness of the white shirt, and a subtle suggestion of exhaustion in the cut of the suit.

Meanwhile, James looks like he could be a member of the Tory party, so similar is his garb to what the Prime Minister likes to wear. Interesting choice, that, given the pressure on Mr Cameron to disassociate himself from the Murdochs. It could backfire. Or it could be a subtle message not to throw them to the wolves.

What do you think?

Mark Zuckerberg

Mark Zuckerberg

Last Saturday I wrote a column about Facebook founder Mark Zuckerberg and the way he dresses, looking at his decision to stick with the hoodie uniform even as he becomes part of the establishment, and ever since it was published letters have been pouring in, at least half of in his defence (even though, to be fair, I never criticized how he looks; I simply noted it). The other half of the correspondents felt it was a topic worth exploring, but the gist of the rest is: leave him alone, you harpie, you!

Here are some of the more extreme examples:

“I wondered whether anyone but a moron could have written the article.”

(this from lifeguardlarry; the following names have been removed to protect the writer’s privacy; I did ask them if I could quote them, but haven’t heard back):

“ You represent a class of people who lives in the dark ages, who think that we should all be wearing a shirt and tie, or a suit, to look responsible – just like the lawyers you mention in your article.”

“Who are you to judge how a billionaire wears his clothes? What gives you the domain expertise? Don’t say because you work for FT, because that doesn’t count, if a person is making more money than your entire lineage maybe you should give that person credit and stop being so damn negative Vanessa.”

Mark ZuckerbergI’ve been writing about public figures and how they dress for a few years now, and no one else – not Barack Obama, or Gordon Brown, or David Cameron, or Hillary Clinton, or Lloyd Blankfein – has provoked half the same response; certainly, none of them seemed to elicit the same amount of emotion in their champions.

Which is interesting, because it suggests that either this is about an industry – that the tech world is more activist and self-protective than, say, the financial world or the political world (or they are less used to being part of the public conversation) – or a generation: the new one, which reveres Zuckerberg as a hero and is deeply offended that anyone might criticize, or even examine, his choices. I’m not sure what the answer is. Any thoughts?

Kate Middleton and Prince William

Kate Middleton and Prince William

And so the frenzied speculation about who will make the next royal wedding dress — and reap profits from it — begins. Today’s official announcement of Prince William’s engagement to Kate Middleton may have romance novelists swooning and traffic cops in a frenzy, but British fashion designers have pound signs in their eyes and ka-chings in their ears (Ms Middleton has to wear British, after all).

I mean, if Robinson Valentine received a notable publicity bump after designing Camilla Parker Bowles’ wedding coat for her “mature” nuptials to Prince Charles, how much more lucrative will the commission be to dress the young and comely Ms Middleton’s?

Diana, Princess of Wales

Diana, Princess of Wales

Sure, the last designer to do such a hotly anticipated gown, Elizabeth Emmanuel, of Princess Diana meringue fame, eventually went bankrupt, but before that — wow, the notoriety! Think it’s a coincidence she re-launched during London Fashion Week last September?

The vultures are already circling. I just received the following email:

“What will Kate and William’s big day look like? How will Kate choose ‘that dress’? Public or private? Classic or contemporary? How do young modern royals do it theirway?

Miranda Eason, Editor of the UK’s top wedding magazines – You & Your Wedding and Cosmopolitan Bride –  is available for interviews, following the news of Prince William and Kate Middleton’s engagement.”

Kate Middleton wearing Issa

Kate Middleton wearing Issa

Speculation actually started last week, about The Dress and who would make it, with the Daily Mail putting their bets on Issa, the hot-DVF-like line oft-times favoured by Ms Middleton, who last week wore a custom-made Issa to the wedding of Prince William’s friend Harry Meade. Personally. I think the Princess-to-be might look at Alice Temperley, an almost-peer, whose current collection is inspired by that other English queen, Guinevere.

And that’s just the tip of the fashion industry’s potential money-making iceberg. There’s the Prince to dress, of course (will he opt for his Dad’s favourite Savile Row bespoke, Ede and Ravescroft?), not to mention all the page boys and girls (a good choice would be Marie-Chantal, the posh kids line designed by the London-based wife of Prince Pavlos of Greece?).

Dress by Temperley London

Dress by Temperley London

The opportunity to spread the wealth around the UK design community is terrific. No wonder David Cameron is rubbing his hands: not only will this fairy tale help ease the psychological pain of all those austerity measures (what a distraction!), but it will pump some money into an industry just when it needs it most.

As for the prince and his bride, what a wonderful chance to position themselves as sensitive and doing their part to counteract the general pain in the British economy. Just think of the tourism possibilities, the foreign royals filling the fancy hotels, the souvenir china and postcards, the events that require a new wardrobe, the high street copies of said wardrobes, and the broadcasting rights! Nothing pumps money into the national treasury like a glamorous Windsor marriage. What designer is your money on?

When announcing severe spending cuts, it helps to present a united front – literally. To look, if not exactly the same, very much on the same sartorial page. Certainly, this seemed the UK coalition government’s modus operandi this morning as chancellor of the exchequer George Osborne and Lib Dem chief secretary to the Treasury Danny Alexander set off for parliament to present their plan for reducing the British deficit in almost-matching dark blue single-breasted suits, white shirts, and blue ties.

getty images

Danny Alexander (left) and George Osborne - Getty Images

And the consistency in suiting didn’t stop there; foreign secretary William Hague, too, appeared in white shirt, navy suit, blue tie, as did Liam Fox, defence secretary and Andrew Lansley, health secretary. Among others. Coincidence? I don’t think so.

getty images

Liam Fox - Getty Images

There’s thought behind such coherent visual messaging, of course – even beyond sheer reference to the Tory party colour. Blue, after all, is also the colour of peace, serenity, water, sincerity, loyalty and steadfastness. It’s True Blue! (Even though some of these guys are Lib Dems, they clearly see wardrobe as no barrier to support.) Plus, that particular combo (blue, white, blue) is shaping up as this generation’s political and economic power uniform, as seen on most world leaders under 50, not to mention the bankers who want to woo them.

getty images

William Hague - Getty Images

Admittedly, there were some important coalition exceptions: Nick Clegg stuck to his signature Lib Dem gold tie, while David Cameron opted for touchy-feely purple, the same shade he wore on his first day at number 10. However, those accessories served their own complementary subconscious purpose. Mr Clegg’s gold number, for example, was the same accessory that served him well on the campaign hustings, while Mr Cameron’s tie had also appeared on the day he and his family moved into Number 10, as if to remind those watching of their decision to choose him – and, hopefully, stick with him through the pain to come.

Related reading:

FT Westminster blog

It is interesting that David Cameron has chosen the chief executive of a luxury company as a member of his new business advisory council. Angela Ahrendts, CEO of Burberry, is joining Sir Howard Stringer, Ratan Tata, and Michael Queen (among other FTSE luminaries) to “make sure the government is getting really good, high-level advice from some of Britain’s leading business men and women,” according to Mr Cameron.

Material World

with Vanessa Friedman

About this blog About Vanessa Blog guide
Vanessa Friedman's blog deals with the fashion/luxury industry from both a corporate and consumer point of view, as well as the subject of dress.



Vanessa FriedmanVanessa has been the FT’s fashion editor since 2003, and is based in New York, though she lived in London for 12 years.
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