Tag: Diane von Furstenberg

President Barack Obama. AP/Paul Beaty

AP/Paul Beaty

The US electorate in general may be voicing ambivalence about the current administration (though it’s unclear who the alternative will be, or what they will think of him), and Wall Street may be swinging toward Mitt Romney, but one sector, at least, is standing by the current president: Fashion. In this election, as in the last, a number of America’s highest profile designers have stood up to lend their names and creative skills to fund-raising for their candidate.

Today, Runway to Win, a website created by the Obama Victory Fund 2012, is “previewing” products from 23 designers, all working under their own names, not their brand names, whose proceeds will go toward the melée to come. Some choice examples: $45 T-shirts from Marc Jacobs, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez (otherwise known as Proenza Schouler), Rachel Roy and Narciso Rodriguez, who has made my personal favourite, a white Tee with black sleeves and neckline and a “button” silk screened on the front with a blue rainbow over a red and white striped land; an Art Nouveau print scarf from Thakoon that is notably unrecognisable as a political statement (maybe too unrecognisable?) for $95; and a DVF tote with her signature heart and scrawl (Obama 12) on one side, and the stars — transformed into hearts — and stripes on the other ($85).

Here is a Christmas wish, courtesy of Diane von Furstenberg, who issued it during a conversation with me on Friday: Bernard Arnault should take his place as the elder statesman of fashion (after all, he pretty much invented it as an industry) and solve the fashion week date problem once and for all.

Consider, after all, the latest development in what has been a multi-month brouhaha over the timing of the big fashion weeks. Just days after France’s Chambre Syndicale announced it was mad that the CFDA (which manages NY fashion week) and the Camera Nazionale (which manages Milan) had not consulted it about the show dates tussle next September, and it was not agreeing to anything (I’m paraphrasing here), the same Chambre Syndicale also announced it was welcoming Giambattista Valli, an Italian, as a fully-fledged member of that most elite (and French) fashion group, the couture.

In one canny manoeuvre it thus demonstrated its:

1) willingness to embrace Italians who work with it (instead of ignoring it); and

2) position as the hautest of the haute — the table where everyone, even the non-French, wants a place. Nice bit of territory-marking, don’t you think?

In response to DVF’s “open letter to the fashion community” on Monday about the 2012 September fashion week dates comes a response letter today from Mario Boselli, head of the Camera Nazionale, in which he explains his side of the story. The full text is reproduced at the end of this blog, but the parts that stick out for me are the following:

1. It was actually addressed to me, which means every one of us members of the “global fashion community” has gotten a similar missive, which takes serious planning; and

2. The following quote: “we must rebut the accusation leveled at CNMI by New York and London of not having complied with the agreement. Such an accusation, besides showing an arrogant and aggressive attitude towards Milan, was supported by unfair arguments aimed at — unilaterally –imposing decisions that had not been agreed upon.”

It may have been sunny outside in New York and parts of Europe for the past week, but behind the fashion scenes it was seriously stormy, as Steven Kolb, Council of Fashion Designers of America president, and his counterpart in Milan, Mario Boselli, president of the Camera Nazionale, battled via email over when next year’s fashion weeks would take place. Now Diane von Furstenberg has stepped in to calm everyone and put it all in perspective via an “open letter to the fashion community.” The essence is: fashion is global (big), so let’s stop acting local (small).

But is this true? The events of the last week seem to put this into question.

Who knew lawyers could get so poetic about IP protection? Not me, which is why I wanted to share the following email message, from Susan Scafidi, academic director of the Fashion Law Institute at Fordham Law School in New York. She is writing about new legislation, being discussed in the US House of Representatives, that would help to protect fashion designers from the jaw-droppingly fast ability of high street shops to pay immediate “homage” to their hit designs the day after said designs are shown on the runway/worn by an influential celeb.

Aerin  Lauder

Aerin Lauder -- Getty Images

Say that 10 times fast!

Actually, this isn’t a tongue twister, it’s a surprising new luxury industry development.

Aerin Lauder, the family standard bearer of the Lauder cosmetic empire (she was the face of a recent fragance), as well as a senior vice-president, is leaving the company to start her own brand. (You can read more about it in the link above to the NY Post. I have had Ms Lauder’s move confirmed by a source. Estée Lauder, however, wouldn’t comment on the story.)

This is a big deal, and not just because Aerin has been so effective as the public representative of the group, popping up at charitable dos and in magazines everywhere to tout company values and colour cosmetics.

It’s a big deal because of what it suggests for the industry: namely, going forward, you’re nothing if you’re not lifestyle. It’s not enough just to be a billion dollar beauty conglomerate anymore.

Fashion isn’t known for being good at mea culpas (generally denial and escapism are what might come to mind in free-association), but today Diane von Furstenberg, designer/CFDA president, has put herself out there in an attempt to change all that. Here it is in her words:

Dear Colleagues and Designers,

I hope you are all resting from NY Fashion Week and that you are having great results from buyers and press.

As you remember, I sent you all a letter prior to the shows, emphasizing healthy models and diversity, and reminding you of our Health Guidelines.

One of the guidelines, as you know, is not to hire models under 16 in addition to making sure that all of them are properly fed.

Material World

with Vanessa Friedman

About this blog About Vanessa Blog guide
Vanessa Friedman's blog deals with the fashion/luxury industry from both a corporate and consumer point of view, as well as the subject of dress.



Vanessa FriedmanVanessa has been the FT’s fashion editor since 2003, and is based in New York, though she lived in London for 12 years.
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