Tag: Gucci

Bertelli: “We don’t want to be a brand that nobody wants to copy.”

Getty Images

Getty Images

The above quote is from an interview Patrizio Bertelli, aka Mr Prada, gave yesterday to Bloomberg TV, and it is probably going to set off something of a hoo-ha in fashion, which has of late become very publicly litigious when it comes to copying.

Aside from the recent Gucci/Guess case, and the recent Burberry case (they sued a bunch of Chinese counterfeiters and won $100m in a Manhattan Federal court), there is the still pending YSL/Louboutin appeal. It is striking, because for years luxury – LVMH aside – was very purposefully quiet about this. I remember being told not so long ago by PPR that they were quite active in pursuing IP issues, but that they wanted to do so under the radar. Ditto Richemont.

Yet a few weeks ago even the latter called me to tell me about a trademark case they had going (which they won) in Russia. Something has changed.

What high-end brands do those unpredictable but desirable, virtually-enabled, live-life-on-Facebook twentysomethings like? This is a question that obsesses luxury — after all, some chunk of said twentysomethings will become the luxury purchasers of the future, and knowing what they respond to is one of the great challenges of today, and potential cash cows of tomorrow.

The other day I had an experience that gave me some clues as to the possible answers. And it’s not what you (OK, I) might expect.

Today PPR, the French luxury group, owner of Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent and Puma brands, came out and did two things that I don’t think any other luxury brand has done so far: publicly put its money where its mouth is. It officially committed to environmental goals to reach by 2016 – announcing them for all to see (and measure, and wave critically in the air if the company fails to fulfill them), and it invested in a carbon off-shoot company, taking a 5% stake in Wildlife Works Carbon, with a seat on the management committee.

It all sounds great, but what does it really mean?

Anyone else noticed that these days you can’t blink an eye without someone – a designer, blogger, brand – announcing they have just “curated” some on-line content?

Christopher Bailey, Burberry chief creative officer, “curated” the music that was the background of their recent sunglasses campaign. Frida Giannini, Gucci creative director, “curated” the content of the Gucci iPhone app. This has gotten so ubiquitous, Fast Company just posted a piece entitled “Content curators are the new superheros of the web”.

But here’s what I can’t help but wonder: isn’t this simply a new word for “editor”? And aren’t both terms being devalued – to the detriment of the consumer?

Most fashion houses are understandably cagey about who they are dressing for the Oscars, the most lucrative red carpet marketing event of the year, which takes place this Sunday in Los Angeles. However, as I’ve been making the rounds of the Milan shows, some bits and bobs of information have come leaking out. The fear, of course, in spilling the beans is that in the end you are proved wrong (see post on Adele at the Grammys). The dressing game isn’t over until the celebrity actually exits the limo, but a few designers were willing to go on the record.

Forget live-streaming fashion shows or three-dimensional etail; yesterday I went to the “ribbon-cutting” ceremony of the Valentino Garavani virtual museum. Though this is a private venture by Valentino-the-man, not linked to Valentino-the-brand (now owned by Permira) my guess is it will have knock-on-positive results for not only the individual but the house he created (after all, his history is their history too), and perhaps the industry in general.

After all, given that Valentino, for most of the consumer world, has been perceived as a relatively un-web-savvy brand compared with such titans as Burberry and Gucci, the name has just vaulted to first place in fashion’s technology race.

Anne Hathaway. Valentino

Held in a theatre in the bowels of MOMA in NY (why NY? Why not? Virtual museums have no geographic limits), complete with requisite movie stars (an overly-gushing Anne Hathaway, left, in Valentino, who announced we were at the start of a “revolution”), it involved an enormous screen on which a virtual ribbon tied itself and then untied itself behind a grinning Valentino Garavani and his business partner, Giancarlo Giammetti. And voila: history was made!

Or so they said. Are they right? I actually think they might be.

The Louis Vuitton store on New Bond Street

A Louis Vuitton store

We all know that film stars such as George Clooney and Uma Thurman have ambassadorial relationships with luxury brands that require their presence at various openings and launches, but the above headline does not refer to “movie stars” and “mega stores”, but actual movies in stores. This is an arresting new development.

To be specific: the flagship superstore is getting yet another special feature. After cafes and restaurants (Armani, Gucci), concert halls (Chanel), bookstores (Marc Jacobs, Armani), and art galleries (LV), comes actual film theatres. Louis Vuitton has announced that their new maison in Rome will “house a small cinema showcasing art films from contemporary artists.” Beat that, rival luxury brands!

As it happens, the new store is in the shell of an old movie theatre, so it wasn’t a giant conceptual leap, but nevertheless it is a first for a luxury name, and it has piqued my interest for a number of reasons.

Gucci will on Wednesday become the first big kahuna to show on day one of Milan Fashion Week –  but it has already jumped the buzz-generating gun by sending out a curtain-raiser announcement.

Bedazzled by the 2002 Steven Spielberg/Tom Cruise blockbuster, “Minority Report,” it has found a way to make that sci-fi technology (you know, where Cruise waved his arms at screens and all sorts of info magically appeared before him) real, and it is putting it in stores! Not only that — it has given it it’s own super-stylish name: the Gucci Immersive Retail Experience. Say that 10 times fast. Or check it out below. That’s the entrance to its Montenapoleone (Milan) store, where the GIRE (like fire, as is “on” — but with a g!) is debuting.


Gucci

What GIRE, which was developed in Hollywood, natch, by OOOii, a tech design company and in Oregon by Planar Systems, appears to involve is not being put in one of those floating tanks like the Samantha Morton character in “Minority Report”, but 50 (count ‘em) 45” and 50” LCD video walls that will “create life-size interactive images.” In short, you wave your hands at them, and things happen.

What things?

Well, you can send products to your phone to share with friends, and watch the fashion show in real time, to name a few. My natural position is one of skepticism, but it’s hard to judge without experiencing it in person. It clearly brings shopping closer to entertainment…

Interestingly, this fashion-for-the-customers initiative comes just after Burberry tweeted every image in its show to its followers just before the models stepped on the runway yesterday.

Though it remains to be seen which approach is more effective, what is clear is both brands are now in a race for the number fashion/tech spot, and they’ve bet chunks of their budget on it. Anyone want to start putting odds on the winner?

Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen, in January 2010. Image by Getty.

And so the Alexander McQueen blockbuster exhibition, Savage Beauty, has finally come to an end, four months and well over half a million visitors after it opened, the most successful fashion show the Metropolitan Museum has ever put on. So where, inquiring minds want to know, will it go next?

Nowhere.

“There are currently no plans about the exhibit,” says a McQueen spokesperson, including no plans for it to go to, say…London, the brand’s birthplace and current home, and the seemingly obvious place for the show to go next. It would be good for any museum, and hence the local economy, and it would help cement the public view of UK fashion as super-creative fabulousness. London’s mayor, Boris Johnson, should be on the hustings, pushing for it.

Blame it on the skinny model controversy and just wanting to avoid the issue entirely. Or maybe it is just boredom. But summer, it seems, has spawned some lateral thinking in the fashion world about where a brand should put its clothes.

Not only have Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent come out with spanky new…well, I hate to use the word “models”, it’s more like “display people.” Or maybe “image-makers”? How about “kindred minds and bodies”? Hmmm. But whatever you want to call it, it has led to an entirely new business being created to make money out of the sort of thing they are doing.

Consider:

-         this Saturday, British It band Florence and the Machine will begin a tour of North America with the said Florence clad entirely by Gucci, in a canny positioning of the brand in the US and Canada. Though the UK is unquestionably saturated by the whole music/fashion thing, thanks to Burberry, its ad campaigns and Burberry acoustic, by hooking up with Florence offshore, Gucci is grabbing some of that identity for itself going forward. Here’s a sketch of what to expect:

Gucci

-         meanwhile, on the 16th, a new version of the Harold Pinter play “Betrayal” shows in London’s West End, starring adult hotties Kristin Scott Thomas and Dougray Scott – and costumes by YSL’s Stefano Pilati. Specifically, expect Ms Scott Thomas in “in a fuchsia silk dress, classic cashmere camel coat, and chiffon skirts in signature Stefano Pilati fingerprint patterns, toting statement YSL bags,” and Mr Scott in “YSL suiting, with louche suede and leather jackets.” Golly! Also expect a new intellectual overlay to the YSL image, leaving music to its PPR stablemate, opera to Prada and claiming the high-minded stage (and perhaps more importantly, stage-goers) for itself.

-          And finally, the Nevs modeling agency in London, having noted the above, has started a new division to sign up-and-coming actors and singers and book them into fashion ads. Here’s their sell: “It is the first created by a modelling agency in response to advertiser demand for genuinely fresh talent that would be able to offer a credible promotional role model to brands. The division will be the first in the market to offer a showcase in one place the new wave of talent to coming out of the worlds of music and screen.”

Now, I know models have been second-tier choices for glossy magazine covers for a long time now, but their status seems to be falling ever further. Those poor pretty girls. They’re so yesterday.

Material World

with Vanessa Friedman

About this blog About Vanessa Blog guide
Vanessa Friedman's blog deals with the fashion/luxury industry from both a corporate and consumer point of view, as well as the subject of dress.



Vanessa FriedmanVanessa has been the FT’s fashion editor since 2003, and is based in New York, though she lived in London for 12 years.
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