Tag: J Crew

Mitt Romney and his wife Ann Romney celebrate their victory in the Illinois GOP primary. Getty Images

Mitt Romney and his wife Ann Romney celebrate their victory in the Illinois GOP primary. Getty Images

The elevation of Mitt Romney to Republican nominee presumptive appears to have acted as a sort of spur to his wife Ann when it comes to her entrance into the imagineering race.

Michelle Obama famously has a blog (mrs-o.org) devoted to her style, after all, which puts her front and centre in many cultural conversations and positions her as a champion of business without her or her camp having to say a word — other than “J Crew” or “Jason Wu” or ”Narciso Rodriguez.” It’s taken until now for Mrs Romney to begin to fight fashion fire with fashion fire.

Mitt and Ann Romney on 'CBS This Morning'. CBS image

Mitt and Ann Romney on 'CBS This Morning'. CBS image

Or so it seems. After a primary season marked mostly by a sea of unidentifiable red suits, earlier this week Mrs R appeared with her husband on “CBS This Morning” wearing a T-shirt printed with bird images by the New York designer Reed Krakoff. It was the first time as far as I know that Mrs Romney had dipped a public toe in the branded fashion world.

And it was an…interesting choice, for two reasons.

I had a very interesting conversation with a Calvin Kleiner this morning as we were waiting for the company’s pre-collection show to start. He had just come back from their latest store opening — at a mall in Toronto.

“Toronto?” quoth I, dubiously. “Is that a big market for Calvin Klein?”

Now before anyone gets huffy about this, I would just like to say: I am married to a Canadian and spend many happy weeks a year in Canada — in fact, I’ll be there soon — but in all the conversations I have in my working life about fabulous luxury/fashion markets, like it or not, the country rarely comes up. In fact, I can remember only one other time, a year ago, in a conversation with Luxottica when the execs said Canada was a very fashion-forward market for sunglasses.

But anyway, here’s what the Calvin Kleiner said: “It’s really, really successful. People spend so much time talking about China, and the BRICs, and Asia-Pacific, but Canada is ten times bigger a market for us than Vietnam. It’s really important — and growing.”

It’s true, when luxury brands bang on about opportunity in North America there is often an implicit assumption on the part of the listener that this means the United States. But maybe it really means Canada, which is clearly under-served (it may be a good market for CK, for example, but they still only have four stand-alone stores in the country).

Certainly, J Crew, which opened its first stand-alone store in Toronto in August, also reports very high demand and sales and I’ve been hearing lots of buzz about what Bonnie Brooks has been doing at the preppy basics department store megalith The Bay, with The Room, a high-end designer space. Plus of course, Joe Fresh, the Canadian more-accessible-Abercrombie, has now penetrated south of the border, in NY, to a fair amount of hoo-ha.

It’s something to keep an eye on, anyway. As is another emerging market where Louis Vuitton and Tiffany just opened with high hopes: Mongolia.

I kid you not.

J. Crew show. Image by Vanessa Friedman.

At the J. Crew fashion week presentation, which had bright-messy-luxe, sequins-and-slouchy, pretty-is-cool-ness (all of which, in its hands, manages to somehow not seem an oxymoron), I started chatting to Mickey Drexler, the company’s chief executive. Mr Drexler was standing with three of his board members, and all of them were wearing blazers and button-down shirts, no tie.

Anyway, we were talking about the show and the board, when Ikram Goldman, the owner of Chicago mega-boutique Ikram, and the woman who originally put the Obamas in J. Crew, came up to say hi to me. Then she turned to Mr Drexler.

And so back to the old question: is all publicity good publicity when it comes to brand-building?

Today Woman’s Wear Daily has a story about J Crew’s recent quarterly report that notes a loss due to the cost of going private, but also allows James Scully, CFO, to trumpet the beginning of the brand’s international rollout, facilitated by the change in ownership. It began two weeks ago in Toronto with the opening a stand-alone store in Canada, and the launch of a Canadian online retailing site. Mr Scully said the company was “really pleased with the results in customer feedback so far.”

Interesting, that. As far as I knew – and I was in Canada, outside of Toronto, for the last two weeks — the story all over the Globe & Mail was of how irate J Crew’s loyal Canadian customers were because when the store opened prices were up to 50 percent higher than they were in New York (Canadian duties, you know; got to pass them on to someone). My in-laws couldn’t stop talking about it.

Michelle Obama wearing a J-Crew cardigan -- Getty Images

Michelle Obama wearing a J. Crew cardigan -- Getty Images

Yesterday marked a sudden surge in spending — not just on stuff, but on companies.

According to the investment bankers with their eye on the retail and fashion sector, Christmas itself has come early: J. Crew has been sold for billions to private equity! Gymboree has gone to Bain! Coty has bought Philosophy from the Carlyle Group! (Remember: three=trend.) Action! The engine has restarted! And so on.

Most of the hoo-ha has centered around the J. Crew deal, understandably, given CEO Mickey Drexler’s traditional quotability — though to be fair so far he seems to have kept his mouth mostly closed on this one — and the fact Michelle Obama is a customer. The beauty deal (Coty/Philosophy) has gotten pretty short shrift. Which is too bad, because for me, it’s the third (here we go again) example of a surge in that sector’s interest in the high end, aka the “Prestige” world. Because they’re worth it, you know.

Material World

with Vanessa Friedman

About this blog About Vanessa Blog guide
Vanessa Friedman's blog deals with the fashion/luxury industry from both a corporate and consumer point of view, as well as the subject of dress.



Vanessa FriedmanVanessa has been the FT’s fashion editor since 2003, and is based in New York, though she lived in London for 12 years.
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