Tag: Jean-Paul Gaultier

L-R - Singer Seal, Helen Willerton, managing director at Chloé and Ralph Toledano. (Getty Images)

After buying Hermès’ 45 per cent stake in Jean Paul Gaultier last year and talking up its development potential, Spanish luxury group Puig has put yet more money where its mouth is. It just announced the appointment of senior luxury executive Ralph Toledano to a newly-created position, president of the fashion division. If you want to send a signal to the fashion community that you are intent on being a serious player, this is a pretty good way to do it.

Mr Toledano, of course, is the ex-CEO and chairman of Chloé and the man who steered that brand through its explosive growth under Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo before owner Richemont decided they wanted to make a change just over a year ago. Most recently he signed on as chairman of US knitwear company St John, a post he will continue to hold. He is also known as the man who brought fashion darling Alber Elbaz to Paris when he hired him as designer for Guy Laroche in 1996 and generally as a talent-spotter and merchandise-man (those Chloé bags!).

Puig is primarily a fragrance group, but also owns fashion brands Carolina Herrera, Nina Ricci, Gaultier and Paco Rabanne. They have always been seen as a much smaller player in the luxury business than the publicly-listed LVMH, PPR, and Richemont, but Mr Toledano’s presence will bring more attention than usual to their moves.

In one of the more bizarre outside-the-box collaborations I have yet discovered, designer Jean-Paul Gaultier has teamed up with Dallas-based Dillon Gage Metals to create … a Gaultier one-ounce gold bar. Forget jewellery; he’s gone straight to the source.

Indeed, this is the first time a fashionista has plunged directly into the world of commodities itself, as opposed to what can be made from commodities. It’s a novel approach to the recent luxury world problem of the skyrocketing price of the yellow metal, which has seen many brands in a flight from gold, exploring other materials (silver, Palladium, diamonds) instead.

Today, Jean-Paul Gaultier introduced a new idea to his women’s couture catwalk: men.

Interspersed with the models in extraordinary elegant feathered and silk creations were dudes in equally elaborate silk and velvet skirts, fur and feather capes, and some very startling beaded leggings.

AP Photo/Jacques Brinon

Mr Gaultier is well known for bucking gender conventions and appropriations of men’s suiting, but this was taking things to a whole new level.

Was it a joke? Social commentary? Proof men and women could wear the same clothes? An argument that if you are going to spend so much money on something, you should be able to share it with a spouse? A new business perhaps (though isn’t made to order suiting the same thing?)

Your guess is as good as mine.  But whatever the answer, it was surprisingly interesting to look at.

Hermès has released an annoucement noting they have received “an expression of interest from potential buyers in its 45 % stake in the Jean-Paul Gaultier company. Discussions have been initiated.”

I find this logical (at least on their part) for a few reasons:

1)      Mr. Gaultier was very close to Jean-Louis Dumas, the charismatic ex-CEO and artistic director of the group who was instrumental in building the family company into a global brand who died last year. It was Jean-L0uis Dumas who has originally bought the stake in JPG the company and who in 2003 asked JPG to be the womens’ wear designer for Hermès. It’s unclear how close Mr Gaultier was to anyone else in the family.

Material World

with Vanessa Friedman

About this blog About Vanessa Blog guide
Vanessa Friedman's blog deals with the fashion/luxury industry from both a corporate and consumer point of view, as well as the subject of dress.



Vanessa FriedmanVanessa has been the FT’s fashion editor since 2003, and is based in New York, though she lived in London for 12 years.
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