Tag: Jimmy Choo

For anyone wondering why a few days ago there was another post on this blog about Jimmy Choo’s new bridal collection — and then there wasn’t: mea culpa.

There’s an industry truism which holds that fashion brands should focus, publicly at least, on their “fashion” lines — the ones that change every season, demonstrate their “vision” and drive consumers into stores — as opposed to their more commercial endeavours (e.g. bridal).

So, in the past, Jimmy Choo had not really communicated about its bridal range (which has existed since 2003); but since Labelux bought the brand in May from its private equity owner TowerBrooke Capital that has changed. It makes sense: bridal is, after all, a hugely lucrative and increasingly branded market. So, it turns out the collection isn’t new (well, there are new seasonal styles); it’s just new to me and in this instance we got it wrong in the original post.

 

The other day I got a nice email informing me that Marigay McKee, formerly Harrods’ fashion and beauty director, had been promoted to “chief merchant officer,” a relatively new title in the luxury world as far as I can tell (and one not to be confused with that other CMO, chief marketing officer). But it’s one that, I think, reflects not just a titular promotion, but a systemic change in industry thinking. After all, in fashion what you put on top always reflects something bubbling up underneath.

Christopher Bailey.

Christopher Bailey. Image by Getty.

Along with the recently-invented CCO (chief creative officer, a nomination bestowed on Christopher Bailey at Burberry and, before she resigned, Tamara Mellon at Jimmy Choo), it elevates the creative side of the business to the same executive level as the corporate side, officially acknowledging the growing synergy between the two.

After all, these same individuals had all previously been, like Ms McKee, “directors” – creative directors, if not fashion and beauty directors – creative director itself being a title invented by Tom Ford, I believe, during his years at Gucci, to indicate his move beyond the traditional role of “designer” into “overseer of all creative things.”

Tamara Mellon, co-founder of Jimmy Choo. Ramin Talaie/Bloomberg

Tamara Mellon, co-founder of Jimmy Choo. Ramin Talaie/Bloomberg

What a difference six months make.

Not so long ago (last May, in fact) I spoke to Tamara Mellon about Labelux, the German luxury group that is privately owned by the reclusive Reimann family, and the fact they had bought her company, Jimmy Choo, from TowerBrook private equity. She was thrilled.

She spoke with great energy (it was a Saturday, but she was eager to talk about work) about how happy she was! She said she was over the moon to have finally escaped the private equity hamster wheel, which had forced her to charm three owners in 10 years and talk them round to her way of thinking about shoes and where they could lead (global lifestyle domination)! She said the words “long-term commitment” made her heart sing! She sounded very convincing.

And yet, here we are, merely half a year later, and Ms Mellon and her CEO, Josh Schulman, have both resigned. And not only that: they have no financial interest in Jimmy Choo. They have totally severed their ties. They are out of there!

It’s shaping up to be a big weekend for British fashion. On one hand we have Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, doing her best to represent every level of British brand available on the Canadian leg of her North American tour having already hit high-end designer (Erdem, left, and Roland Mouret), middle market (Issa, below right), and international accessories (Manolo Blahnik, Mulberry — both when she boarded the plane in Britian); on the other we have Kate Moss’s wedding.

Getty Images

OMG! The anticipation about what is coming for both women is almost too much to bear. After all, just think about what it means for a designer every time either woman appears in a brand. It could pump up the entire economy…

Getty Images

OK, that’s a bit of an exaggeration. Still, I’ve been thinking about it, and given the incredible financial benefits involved, not to mention sheer voyeuristic enjoyment, here’s what I want to know:

 

  1. Will Kate Moss wear John Galliano, and thus begin the maybe-possible resurrection of the designer? Or will she opt for some sort of unidentifiable vintage-y gown, as she did with her rather inexplicable rehearsal dinner dress, which made her look like she was either auditioning for a panto version of Rapunzel, or a home movie about Stevie Nicks.
  2. Will the Duchess of Cambridge continue to use the money she saved by not having a stylist or hairdresser accompany her on tour to up her wardrobe contents, eschewing her former high street choices (good for the home market, I guess, and the message and she and Wills are just like any other nice couple next door) for haute London fashion week names (the better to promote UK industry on the international stage)? She hasn’t yet worn, for example, Stella McCartney or Christopher Kane, and there’s always more Burberry and McQueen.
  3. How come neither of them has sported products from one of the biggest UK fashion success stories, one that was recently valued at £500m when it changed hands? Is it because it is now owned by an Austrian, even though it was started by a Brit (who now happens to live in America)? Is it because once you reach a certain level of success, you are considered global? (Burberry would suggest no, but then, they have been rather aggressive about self-identifying as English.) I am speaking, of course, of Jimmy Choo.

Anyway, stay tuned, as we attempt to answer these questions, as well as any others you might have.

Aerin  Lauder

Aerin Lauder -- Getty Images

Say that 10 times fast!

Actually, this isn’t a tongue twister, it’s a surprising new luxury industry development.

Aerin Lauder, the family standard bearer of the Lauder cosmetic empire (she was the face of a recent fragance), as well as a senior vice-president, is leaving the company to start her own brand. (You can read more about it in the link above to the NY Post. I have had Ms Lauder’s move confirmed by a source. Estée Lauder, however, wouldn’t comment on the story.)

This is a big deal, and not just because Aerin has been so effective as the public representative of the group, popping up at charitable dos and in magazines everywhere to tout company values and colour cosmetics.

It’s a big deal because of what it suggests for the industry: namely, going forward, you’re nothing if you’re not lifestyle. It’s not enough just to be a billion dollar beauty conglomerate anymore.

In times of global trauma — conflict in Libya and the broader region, natural disasters in Japan — it feels a little weird to be writing about fashion. I spent a lot of the weekend wrestling with an unfamiliar angst about my chosen subject matter in the context of today. It’s not that I don’t think it’s still legitimate – I do; we still need to get dressed in the morning; – but there’s limited space in all of our days, and sometimes there are more important things to think about.

Just wanted to put that out there.

On the other hand, identity, even in the face of disaster, is a big deal, and that’s really what this space is about: personal identity, and the way clothes function strategically to that end, as well as corporate identity. More than most industries, fashion brands tend to bear the name of their founders, and for a while that has been true even if their founders aren’t actually involved in their companies any more. This can be quite traumatic to the entrepreneur who loses their name. After all, theoretically, a name should be the one thing you can always hang on to, but this isn’t always the case in fashion. This is in the news again because of rumours that Jimmy Choo the cobbler wants to buy Jimmy Choo the brand back (more of which below).

Luxury leaves 2010 on a high note. Most analysts see good things for 2011 – the folks at HSBC, noting the positive performance of watches and jewellery last month, even say: “It is hard to find industries with better fundamental prospects than luxury for 2011.”

Indeed, post-end-of-year auction on December 14, Christie’s reports they had “a record-breaking year for fine and rare watches” with an estimated “$91.2m in total sales – the highest annual total ever achieved for watches.” Meanwhile, Tom Murry, ceo of Calvin Klein, told me they were having a very good Christmas season, and plan to open double-digit stores next year, and Tamara Mellon, chief creative officer of Jimmy Choo, has world domination in mind, and plans to expand into ready-to-wear, watches, and jewellery, after launching mens’ shoes.

Fendi and Armani are pushing the brand extension boundary, moving beyond hotels and interiors to collaborate with Princess yachts, further creating the designer lifestyle.

As for the etail world, it continues to heat up as an investment prospect: hot on the heels of new VC money pouring into on-line men’s wear etailer Bonobos, Alex and Alexa, the children’s wear etailer, announced today it had secured £1.5m from MMC to expand internationally (they forecast turnover of $40m by 2014).

And just to bolster all this, Pantone, those colour people, announced the shade for 2011 is honeysuckle, which “emboldens us to face everyday troubles with verve and vigor. A dynamic reddish pink, Honeysuckle is encouraging and uplifting. It elevates our psyche beyond escape, instilling the confidence, courage and spirit to meet the exhaustive challenges that have become part of everyday life.” (Well, hooray. Given last year’s colour was turquoise, could this be the end of the blue power tie? That will be interesting to watch.) Maybe it will encourage more spending too. We’ll see in the new year.

Meanwhile, I’m off to the Canadian woods, where I plan to wear a skidoo suit that makes so much noise when I walk it scares away the coyotes. Talk to you in 2011.

PPR is putting luxury on hold and charging forward into sportswear and sustainability. Yesterday, the French conglomerate displayed its trademark dispassionate ability to end (or suspend) industrial dalliances it feels may become less than productive by announcing the creation of — and concentration on — a new “sport and lifestyle” division run by Puma CEO Jochen Zeitz, who has also been promoted to executive chairman of Puma.

Last year PPR announced plans to divest themselves of their retail properties (FNAC, Conforma and Redcats), and general industry wisdom was they would use money from those sales to buy another big luxury name — Hermès, Armani, Bulgari and Tiffany have all been mooted as possible targets. Now, however, it seems the group has decided to spend the money on more mass brands, which may have less costly brand value (the equity associated with names like Hermes and Armani is enormous). Put another way, apparently they’ve moved their sights from LVMH to Nike.

Getty Images

Getty Images

Tonight, Tamara Mellon is being honoured by the Elton John Foundation at its 9th annual “Enduring Vision” benefit, for having raised $3.5 million for the charity. Past honorees include Bill Clinton. It’s a big deal. Still, as much as I admire Ms Mellon’s accomplishment, as I mull over her appearance this evening and consider the piece in today’s FT about the fact women have made surprisingly few incursions into contemporary boardrooms, I can’t help thinking that in many ways, her real pioneering achievement has to do less with monies raised (where she’s successful, but not singular) and more to do with, well, appearance. Specifically, challenging accepted ideas of how a female member of the c-suite needs to appear. Put Ms Mellon in a line up of execs, from Angela Ahredts to Carly Fiorina and even Robin Saunders, and you’ have to think: one of these things is not like the other ones.

Ms Mellon doesn’t play the pant suit game. Her style might be more accurately characterised as Heather Locklear-on-Melrose Place-to-the-nth-degree. Her outfit of choice is a very tight, draped, dress and very high heels. A major part of her fundraising effort for the AIDS foundation was a coffee table book entitled “4Inches” featuring pictures of many famous women, herself included, naked save for towering Jimmy Choos and Cartier jewellery. Earlier this year, she also posed nude (with a kitten and cigarette) for photographer Terry Richardson in “Interview”. “Wonder what they’ll say at the next board meeting,” she told the magazine. Here’s my guess: Gulp!

Material World

with Vanessa Friedman

About this blog About Vanessa Blog guide
Vanessa Friedman's blog deals with the fashion/luxury industry from both a corporate and consumer point of view, as well as the subject of dress.



Vanessa FriedmanVanessa has been the FT’s fashion editor since 2003, and is based in New York, though she lived in London for 12 years.
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