It’s shaping up to be a big weekend for British fashion. On one hand we have Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, doing her best to represent every level of British brand available on the Canadian leg of her North American tour; on the other we have Kate Moss’s wedding. After all, just think about what it means for a designer every time they appear in a brand.
Fashion, I understand, is a seductive target. It’s hard to resist attacking such a big, glossy, seemingly superficial industry. But please, can we stop now? Yesterday, reading yet another giant treatise (this one by Tom Sykes in the Sunday Telegraph) blaming fashion for John Galliano’s descent into addiction, I wanted to rip my hair out. Come on, guys. Can we get a little perspective here?
John Galliano appears before a Paris court – AFP
And so John Galliano’s trial has started in Paris, and one question has been answered: would the designer appear in court in full-fledged character-bedecked glory – as, say, Napoleon, or an urchin, or the artist Rene Grau, as he did after many of his most famous shows for his former brand, Christian Dior – or would he play himself?
Mr Galliano is standing trial for allegedly making anti-Semitic remarks to customers in a Paris café this year. Read more
Watching “L’Amour Fou”, the documentary about Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre Berge, and the $484 million sale of their stuff that opens today in theatres in the US, it’s hard not to think about John Galliano, and his rather spectacular implosion last March. indeed, it’s hard not to think that this film is as much about eulogising an era that is no more — that of the designer as monstre sacre — as a relationship. Or maybe they are one and the same?
The Time magazine list of the 100 most influential people in the world is out and guess what: there’s only ONE fashion person on it: Tom Ford. Read more
It never rains but it pours: less than a month after John Galliano’s public implosion and firing from Dior, LVMH (which is actually owned by Dior) faces another hoo-ha, as the ex-CFO/COO of Marc Jacobs International, Patrice Lataillade, sues both the Group (which owns a chunk of MJ, just as Dior owned a majority of John Galliano’s eponymous company), MJI, and MJI president Robert Duffy in Manhattan Supreme Court for sexual discrimination.
Theoretically, faced with earthquakes, bankruptcy, etc., a name should be the one thing you can always hang on to. Not in fashion. Here is a short and non-comprehensive list of living designers who have lost their names in recent years:Herve Leger; Roland Mouret; Jil Sander; Helmut Lang – and so on. This is a big question mark over John Galliano, whose brand is owned by Dior, — will they sell his name back to him? Can he afford it? Will they close it? Or what? And now rumours are circlign around Jimmy Choo.
The saga never ends. Yesterday a friendly retailer forwarded an email they had received from Ittierre, the big Italian company that manufactures many of the eponymous John Galliano licenses (on which that brand depends for a large chunk of revenue). Here’s what it said: Read more
John Galliano has gotten tired of letting everyone else (my good self included) tell their version of his story, and decided to release a statement via solicitors Harbottle & Lewis. Here it is: Read more
There’s been a lot of talk, runway-side, about whether or not the Dior show can happen; a lot of protests vs publicity risk assessment. Here’s what I think: yes. They just need to be smart about how they do it.
if I were the Dior folks, for example, instead of emptiness to replace the usual John bow, I’d send the entire atelier – all the designers and assistants and seamstresses that actually make a collection happen – out onto the runway at the end of the show. Then the story becomes about preserving jobs, and supporting the workers that are left dealing with what Galliano wrought, and that runway full of blameless people becomes the picture that goes ’round the world, and Dior becomes the brand that cares for employees. Read more
Christian Dior has dismissed for John Galliano, its star designer, for professional misconduct over the scandal surrounding alleged anti-Semitic comments he made. Read more
WWD is reporting that Oscar winner Natalie Portman – aka the official face of Miss Dior Cherie — has officially disassociated herself from John Galliano. They quote a statement from Ms Portman saying: Read more
Christian Dior has suspended creative director John Galliano after his arrest last night in Paris on assault charges, pending investigation. Mr Galliano had allegedly been under the influence of alcohol, and shouted anti-semitic comments at a couple on a Marais cafe. Read more
Fashion designers get inspiration from all sorts of places: leaves (Valentino Garavani once told me the green in a dress he made came from some leaf he had picked up in Hyde Park and carried back to his atelier), true life stories (this season John Galliano made an entire collection about a 1920s con artist), and, occasionally, other designers.
Consider these two pictures: Read more
The Vanity Fair New Establishment 100 list has just been unveiled, and its criteria for picking “the 100 most influential” are increasingly impenetrable. Read more