Tag: Marc Jacobs

Azzedine Alaïa

Azzedine Alaïa autumn/winter collection. Image by Vanessa Friedman.

What’s next? This question does not refer to the continuing rumours about which designer is going to which house (though as I left Paris the Marc-Jacobs-to-Dior gossip received a new lease of life thanks to the fantastic Louis Vuitton not-quite-a-retrospective at the Musée des Arts Decoratifs, and a story in UK Vogue). It refers to clothes.

And though today, in my final review of the season, I wonder about the answer, last night, I saw a conclusion of sorts, so I thought I’d write this addendum.

Watching the Paris shows I was struck by two things:

  • though I liked the clothes, mostly, that I’ve seen for the past few weeks, they are almost entirely focused on dressing for the now, as opposed to the future
  • the relatively naked influence Azzedine Alaïa’s couture show in July had on the rest of the industry.

President Barack Obama. AP/Paul Beaty

AP/Paul Beaty

The US electorate in general may be voicing ambivalence about the current administration (though it’s unclear who the alternative will be, or what they will think of him), and Wall Street may be swinging toward Mitt Romney, but one sector, at least, is standing by the current president: Fashion. In this election, as in the last, a number of America’s highest profile designers have stood up to lend their names and creative skills to fund-raising for their candidate.

Today, Runway to Win, a website created by the Obama Victory Fund 2012, is “previewing” products from 23 designers, all working under their own names, not their brand names, whose proceeds will go toward the melée to come. Some choice examples: $45 T-shirts from Marc Jacobs, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez (otherwise known as Proenza Schouler), Rachel Roy and Narciso Rodriguez, who has made my personal favourite, a white Tee with black sleeves and neckline and a “button” silk screened on the front with a blue rainbow over a red and white striped land; an Art Nouveau print scarf from Thakoon that is notably unrecognisable as a political statement (maybe too unrecognisable?) for $95; and a DVF tote with her signature heart and scrawl (Obama 12) on one side, and the stars — transformed into hearts — and stripes on the other ($85).

Dior handbag

Dior handbag. Image by Vanessa Friedman.

Forget the sense of nostalgia and farewell that pervaded Marc Jacobs’ sugar-sweet Louis Vuitton show, the clothes full of couture constructions as if an audition for a couture house; something happened yesterday at Christian Dior that had a very MJ-feel.

To be specific: the brand unveiled a new collaboration with the German artist Anselm Reyle that will be in-store for a limited time from  January until March, and involved pop art-like neon camouflage and metallics on the famous Miss Dior bag, as well as little flats and wedges, some bangles, and even a makeup line.

Jil Sander show

Jil Sander show - - spring/summer 2012. Image by Catwalking.

For everyone who was super-excited about the rumours, sparked this weekend by a report in the IHT, that Jil Sander’s Raf Simons was going to take over from Stefano Pilati as head designer at Yves Saint Laurent: well, Paul Deneuve, YSL’s chief executive, just told me it wasn’t true.

So there’s the official line.

But ooh, wasn’t the speculation fun? It actually trumped the Christian Dior/Marc Jacobs whispers for a moment there.

So, back from my August vacation two days late thanks to Hurricane Irene, to discover, at least as far as NY fashion goes, things seem pretty much business as usual.

I may have spent Monday scooping a swarm of suicidal gnats out of my in-laws’ pool (apparently, they decided they would choose their own death by water instead of having the winds foist it upon them) instead of making my fashion week schedule, but the emails have flowed in nonetheless, requesting RSVPs and trumpeting that pre-fashion week consumer extravaganza otherwise known as Fashion’s Night Out.

Hoo-ha in the US yesterday not just about plunging stocks, but plunging model ages as Good Morning America discovered that French Vogue and other magazines had put a 10-year-old in their pages. Granted, that was the Tom Ford-edited Vogue issue from  December, so GMA is late to this issue, but the upshot is that what was once a rumbling within fashion has now entered the world of public opinion and opprobrium.

The grand British fashion historian and critic Colin McDowell has just written a rather incendiary, and I think alarmist, essay for The Business of Fashion website that seems to make the connection between the UK government allowing universities to set their own fee schedule and the death of British fashion. That’s a pretty extreme position to take, and I’m not entirely convinced.

Essentially, McDowell says that once UK education starts costing a lot and grants disappear (and the latter I think is arguable; if you look at the US, where higher education has always cost a fortune and where many universities’ grants are, in fact, getting bigger) kids in art schools will get super-focused on making their fees back, and thus eschew making angry, transgressive stuff (paintings, dresses) after graduation to play it safe and get a big fat salary at big fat conglomerates which are only interested in already-proven success. And then, lo, the end of creative brilliance, which will negatively impact the UK most of all, because its claim to fame on the global fashion scene is as the font of all crazy imagination, as fostered in the historically subsidised-art school system, which puts vision first and commerce a very far, far distant second.

Scary, right?

It never rains but it pours: less than a month after John Galliano’s public implosion and firing from Dior, LVMH (which is actually owned by Dior) faces another hoo-ha, as the ex-CFO/COO of Marc Jacobs International, Patrice Lataillade, sues both the Group (which owns a chunk of MJ, just as Dior owned a majority of John Galliano’s eponymous company), MJI, and MJI president Robert Duffy in Manhattan Supreme Court for sexual discrimination.

Mr Lataillade’s suit says Mr Duffy made staff pole-dance and look at gay pornography, among other provocative things that made Mr Lataillade uncomfortable, and when he complained they fired him. The defendants have denied the accusations.

An LVMH spokesperson e-mailed: “The allegations contained in the complaint are false. Patrice Lataillade was terminated as CFO and COO of MJI for serious matters unrelated to the allegations contained in the complaint. MJI, LVMH Inc. and Robert Duffy will vigorously defend the case in court.”

Marc Jacobs collection

Marc Jacobs collection - - image by Catwalking.com

The CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America) nominations have been announced, and guess what: just 16 nominees are vying for the six big awards. Makes the options looks pretty thin, especially given the fact that there were 100 plus shows during New York Fashion Week.

Kind of makes you wonder about those other designers: were they not any good? 16 out of 100 is not a great success ratio.

But as it is, I think certain bets can be laid. For example: when it comes to women’s wear, the nominees are Marc Jacobs, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler, and Alexander Wang.

Last night I went to the Pierre hotel in New York to see a Lanvin loves H&M fashion show. They – by which I mean H&M, since this was clearly their gig to fund, though it had been given a Lanvin make-over — had taken over a jewel-like ballroom in the luxury hotel and erected a catwalk; outside was a red carpet. Many foreign fashion editors, as well as director Mike Figgis, who made their on-line advert/film, had been flown in for the occasion, and put up at the Four Seasons, and some celebrities, like Elettra Widemann, were front and center. The whole thing was running on high-fashion time, so the invitees stood around for an hour as tuxedo-clad waiters served caviar and blinis and champagne. Finally the show took place, and everyone cheered; Mike Figgis, who was sitting next to me, whispered that he thought the clothes had been upscaled for the catwalk. Afterwards, there was a pop-up shop where the attendees could have first dibs on the collection, though not immediately: people were let in according to colour codes on the back of their invites.

In other words, as an event it was: expensive, gorgeous, and elitist. All of which are words I think of as par for the course for high fashion, but the exact opposite of what H&M stands for, and what has made it such a success, which as I’ve always understood it was great fashion for the masses. And that, along with the prices tags of the Lanvin for H&M dresses, which clock in at $199.90, made me wonder if, perhaps, the event was about a little more than just a big blow-out shindig .

Material World

with Vanessa Friedman

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Vanessa Friedman's blog deals with the fashion/luxury industry from both a corporate and consumer point of view, as well as the subject of dress.



Vanessa FriedmanVanessa has been the FT’s fashion editor since 2003, and is based in New York, though she lived in London for 12 years.
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