Tag: Mickey Drexler

The amount of attention paid to the appointment of Dixon’s ceo, John Browett, as Apple’s new head of retail, is interesting. After all, how many times does the announcement of the guy running stores at even the biggest companies merit this many column inches?

Put another way: I’ll give you $100 if you can tell me who runs retail for Louis Vuitton? Ferrari? Gucci? Nike? Tiffany? Actually, that was a joke, but you get the point.

I have no idea how to answer those questions, and I am theoretically at least someone who should care about such matters. After all, in the luxury world, it’s all about the flagship, and the place where brand and consumers meet.

So why is Apple different? Why do people care so much about this guy’s name?

The question of how to balance virtual stores with bricks and mortar ones is a thorny one, with various theories fighting for dominance. Some say it’s all going virtual and point to the search for value (see the FT today and the report on shoppers deserting the high street for home pages), while others say products need to be touched to be appreciated, and point to the recent Zappos debacle as something that will also drive people back into stores. The only thing that’s clear is the lack of consensus on the best strategy going forward, something that was brought home to me pretty tangibly thanks to two recent bits of information I stumbled upon.

First, at the Financo seminar I wrote about yesterday, the question and answer session produced an interesting addendum courtesy of audience member Mickey Drexler, chief executive of J Crew. Mr Drexler asked the panellists, all of whom were bullish on their consumer future, what crystal ball they were using, since as far as he could tell, the Christmas just gone was the most discounted in memory, and foot traffic was way down at his mall stores.

And so back to the old question: is all publicity good publicity when it comes to brand-building?

Today Woman’s Wear Daily has a story about J Crew’s recent quarterly report that notes a loss due to the cost of going private, but also allows James Scully, CFO, to trumpet the beginning of the brand’s international rollout, facilitated by the change in ownership. It began two weeks ago in Toronto with the opening a stand-alone store in Canada, and the launch of a Canadian online retailing site. Mr Scully said the company was “really pleased with the results in customer feedback so far.”

Interesting, that. As far as I knew – and I was in Canada, outside of Toronto, for the last two weeks — the story all over the Globe & Mail was of how irate J Crew’s loyal Canadian customers were because when the store opened prices were up to 50 percent higher than they were in New York (Canadian duties, you know; got to pass them on to someone). My in-laws couldn’t stop talking about it.

Michelle Obama wearing a J-Crew cardigan -- Getty Images

Michelle Obama wearing a J. Crew cardigan -- Getty Images

Yesterday marked a sudden surge in spending — not just on stuff, but on companies.

According to the investment bankers with their eye on the retail and fashion sector, Christmas itself has come early: J. Crew has been sold for billions to private equity! Gymboree has gone to Bain! Coty has bought Philosophy from the Carlyle Group! (Remember: three=trend.) Action! The engine has restarted! And so on.

Most of the hoo-ha has centered around the J. Crew deal, understandably, given CEO Mickey Drexler’s traditional quotability — though to be fair so far he seems to have kept his mouth mostly closed on this one — and the fact Michelle Obama is a customer. The beauty deal (Coty/Philosophy) has gotten pretty short shrift. Which is too bad, because for me, it’s the third (here we go again) example of a surge in that sector’s interest in the high end, aka the “Prestige” world. Because they’re worth it, you know.

Material World

with Vanessa Friedman

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Vanessa Friedman's blog deals with the fashion/luxury industry from both a corporate and consumer point of view, as well as the subject of dress.



Vanessa FriedmanVanessa has been the FT’s fashion editor since 2003, and is based in New York, though she lived in London for 12 years.
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