Tag: Milan Fashion Week

As I was leaving Italy after Milan Fashion Week, I was chatting to Guglielmo Miani, the young-ish CEO of Larusmiani, a family-owned manufacturer of luxurious materials, when he let drop an interesting fact. Last week the Italian government quietly changed the law it passed in November that banned retail establishments from accepting more than €1,000 in cash. Surprise!

What changed?

Now, retail establishments have no limit on the cash they can accept from foreigners, as long as they take a photocopy of said foreigner’s passport. I’ll say that again: no limit. Italians are still restricted to €1,000.

We Are All Guilty for this Mess,” according to Suzy Menkes, fashion editor of the International Herald Tribune. In a heartfelt piece in her newspaper, my fellow Fashion Week traveller and friend took the fashion industry (herself included) to task for the very public soap opera that is the current round of designer switcheroos, in which bystanders gossip and place bets and tweet about real jobs and real people like they are characters in a reality television game.

It’s tough and honest and has people buzzing at the shows, and I recommend you read it, but I’m also not sure I entirely agree with it. I think she’s right about the situation, but doesn’t fully get to the cause.

Most fashion houses are understandably cagey about who they are dressing for the Oscars, the most lucrative red carpet marketing event of the year, which takes place this Sunday in Los Angeles. However, as I’ve been making the rounds of the Milan shows, some bits and bobs of information have come leaking out. The fear, of course, in spilling the beans is that in the end you are proved wrong (see post on Adele at the Grammys). The dressing game isn’t over until the celebrity actually exits the limo, but a few designers were willing to go on the record.

Stella McCartney

Stella McCartney

The London 2012 Olympics may not start until July, but Stella McCartney’s personal marathon begins in February.

The designer, who is creating the uniforms for Team GB as well as various bits of sartorial memorabilia for the tourist hordes, has agreed to return to London Fashion Week for a one-off extravaganza on February 18. This actually follows a pre-collection presentation in NY in January and a perfume launch, and precedes her usual autumn/winter collection show in Paris on March 5.

It’s exhausting just thinking about it.

Though Ms McCartney, who also has a line with Adidas which has been shown in London, she has not had a full-fledged main line show in the UK capital since she joined Chloe in 1997. According to her office, the February event will not be a catwalk show, but rather a presentation focused on eveningwear.

Nevertheless, expect drumrolls of pre-publicity, fights for tickets, clogged thoroughfares – expect, in other words, an effective dry run for the main event.

By Rachel Sanderson

Pirelli – it’s not just about tyres and tastefully sexed-up calendars anymore. As of this week, it’s also about fashion, as a new 1,500 square metre store, on prime real estate off ur-shopping drag Montenapoleone, demonstrated. Opened by Naomi Campbell (who was happy to point out that she’s graced the calendar more than any other celeb/model), it features, not surprisingly…rubber! A lot of it.

Pirelli

Architect Renato Montagner is the creative director behind PZero, the name of the new retail collection, which features rubber bike jackets, with designs created by Scott Campbell, an up-market tattoo artist who has worked for Orlando Bloom and Sting.  The line includes bags and suitcases (designed in collaboration with Valextra), and rain hats in – wait for it – rubberised linen (created with Borsalino), not to mention bicycles, trekking boots and rather nifty wetsuits and snorkelling masks.

The star turn though, belongs to the rainboots.

Gucci will on Wednesday become the first big kahuna to show on day one of Milan Fashion Week –  but it has already jumped the buzz-generating gun by sending out a curtain-raiser announcement.

Bedazzled by the 2002 Steven Spielberg/Tom Cruise blockbuster, “Minority Report,” it has found a way to make that sci-fi technology (you know, where Cruise waved his arms at screens and all sorts of info magically appeared before him) real, and it is putting it in stores! Not only that — it has given it it’s own super-stylish name: the Gucci Immersive Retail Experience. Say that 10 times fast. Or check it out below. That’s the entrance to its Montenapoleone (Milan) store, where the GIRE (like fire, as is “on” — but with a g!) is debuting.


Gucci

What GIRE, which was developed in Hollywood, natch, by OOOii, a tech design company and in Oregon by Planar Systems, appears to involve is not being put in one of those floating tanks like the Samantha Morton character in “Minority Report”, but 50 (count ‘em) 45” and 50” LCD video walls that will “create life-size interactive images.” In short, you wave your hands at them, and things happen.

What things?

Well, you can send products to your phone to share with friends, and watch the fashion show in real time, to name a few. My natural position is one of skepticism, but it’s hard to judge without experiencing it in person. It clearly brings shopping closer to entertainment…

Interestingly, this fashion-for-the-customers initiative comes just after Burberry tweeted every image in its show to its followers just before the models stepped on the runway yesterday.

Though it remains to be seen which approach is more effective, what is clear is both brands are now in a race for the number fashion/tech spot, and they’ve bet chunks of their budget on it. Anyone want to start putting odds on the winner?

Mirror, mirror on the wall, who has the best fashion week of all?

Such appears to be the refrain of the moment in Paris and Milan. Perhaps it is because of the historic rivalry. It’s like siblings: Who is better? Bigger? More creative? Who knows more powerful people? Who gets more attention? Perhaps it is because lately it seems as if every country is starting at least one, if not two, fashion weeks of their own, but Milan and Paris seem to be doing their utmost to add more designers to their schedule, thereby increasing their reach and power and asserting their primacy in this notably hierarchical world.

I mean, this is an industry obsessed with the front row. The machinations are not exactly subtle.

Follow the FT’s reports from the final day of shows at Milan Fashion Week.

Prada -- image by Catwalking.com

Interestingly, given all that has been written about the hoo-ha of brands placing bloggers in their front row and the supposedly retrograde reaction of the established glossy press (yikes! Barbarians at the gate!), this week American Glamour has invited and imported to Milan, on their own budget, five of the “guest bloggers” on their new “Young & Posh Blogger network,” part of their website. The bloggers are seeing some shows, meeting some designers and otherwise becoming part of the family. If you can’t beat ‘em, employee them.

They are: Susie Lau (Susie Bubble), Erica Baldi (Blue is in Fashion this Year), Kelley Framel (The Glamourai), Deni Elias (Chicmuse) and Tamu McPherson (All the Pretty Birds). Yesterday the magazine had a party to welcome them, although half the attendees had to leave part-way through to go to the Prada show. That was a little weird, but also probably a good peek into the reality of life during fashion week: just as things are going well– Bam! everyone deserts you for some other brand.

Follow the FT’s latest reports from Milan Fashion Week.

Material World

with Vanessa Friedman

About this blog About Vanessa Blog guide
Vanessa Friedman's blog deals with the fashion/luxury industry from both a corporate and consumer point of view, as well as the subject of dress.



Vanessa FriedmanVanessa has been the FT’s fashion editor since 2003, and is based in New York, though she lived in London for 12 years.
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