Tag: Missoni

So it all came true, and PPR did, indeed, buy Italian men’s wear luxury brand Brioni. So far, so rumoured. But what does it mean? It seems to me there are two main implications to the deal:

1. Men’s wear is the new frontier.

Although widely heralded as one of the greatest men’s wear brands, Brioni itself spent several years chasing the women’s market. This began in the early noughties under then-CEO Umberto Angeloni, with ready-to-wear that looked a lot like men’s wear (think elegant cashmere suiting), and continued when the family took the helm back under Andrea Perrone, with snazzier styles by Alessandro Dell’Acqua. Mr Perrone was the founder’s grandson, but he resigned last year to make way for another non-family CEO Francesco Pesci (complicated, I know). But they all sought to tap the theory that women shopped and spent more than men.

The efforts didn’t work, and they gave up on women’s wear last August, which seems to have sat well with PPR. Indeed, in their statement, PPR was careful to call Brioni a “men’s wear-only brand,” a telling appellation. PPR has enough women’s wear brands after all; their only brand with a major upmarket men’s wear presence is Gucci. Their investment is in the guy factor – especially as it relates to China where it is the men who shop and spend more.

Though in many ways the brands mentioned in the headline – Hermès and Donald Trump – are what one would think of (OK, I would think of) as polar opposites, the former being famous for its discrete elegance, the latter being famous for its in-your-face 24-carat bluster, they are nevertheless setting up house together in … the Philippines. Below is a rendering of their love nest.

Century Properties

The relationship was brokered by Robbie Antonio, managing director of Century Properties, and the man behind what is increasingly looking like a mini fashion-city in Manila: high-rise condos with public areas (lobbies, libraries, pools) and apartments decorated by Versace, Missoni (both Italian labels) and now Hermès. He already had a licence deal with Trump on the table to build Trump Tower Manila (the building is owned and operated by Century), which will become the most luxurious, expensive, property in the city, and thought, he said, it would be great to have “two very formidable brands involved in the most important single tower.” He approached Hermès, which had recently launched a furniture line, and the French brand agreed to create the building’s shared spaces.

And you thought all that stuff on the runways was enough! Designers – especially, it seems, Italian designers – are busily embracing all sorts of product opportunities beyond the ready-to-wear, from apartment buildings to yachts. Hotels, fashion’s erstwhile favourite diversification initiative, are so yesterday.

What else to make of the fact that both Missoni and Versace have teamed up with Century Properties in Manila to create the interiors of new high-rise developments, and Fendi just completed a boat with Princess Yachts. After all, you know what they say: one example is a fluke; two is a coincidence; but three, well, three’s a trend.

We have trend, people.

Aerin  Lauder

Aerin Lauder -- Getty Images

Say that 10 times fast!

Actually, this isn’t a tongue twister, it’s a surprising new luxury industry development.

Aerin Lauder, the family standard bearer of the Lauder cosmetic empire (she was the face of a recent fragance), as well as a senior vice-president, is leaving the company to start her own brand. (You can read more about it in the link above to the NY Post. I have had Ms Lauder’s move confirmed by a source. Estée Lauder, however, wouldn’t comment on the story.)

This is a big deal, and not just because Aerin has been so effective as the public representative of the group, popping up at charitable dos and in magazines everywhere to tout company values and colour cosmetics.

It’s a big deal because of what it suggests for the industry: namely, going forward, you’re nothing if you’re not lifestyle. It’s not enough just to be a billion dollar beauty conglomerate anymore.

Material World

with Vanessa Friedman

About this blog About Vanessa Blog guide
Vanessa Friedman's blog deals with the fashion/luxury industry from both a corporate and consumer point of view, as well as the subject of dress.



Vanessa FriedmanVanessa has been the FT’s fashion editor since 2003, and is based in New York, though she lived in London for 12 years.
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