Tag: Net-a-Porter

It never rains but it pours, and so on. In those terms, this season the fashion world has experienced a deluge.

After the departures of Stefano Pilati and Raf Simons from YSL and Jil Sander respectively, and the expected exit of Derek Lam from Tod’s in September, come three more announcements; Lucy Yeomans, editor in chief of Harper’s Bazaar UK, is leaving, Amanda Brooks, fashion director of Barneys New York, has already gone, and Belinda Earl, CEO of Aquascutum and Jaeger, is stepping down for health reasons. This is, as they say, a moment of change.

A year after launch, Moda Operandi, the etailer that allows fashionistas to order directly from the runway straight after a show, is entering the next stage of its growth plan.

After carving out a niche in the US, and poaching top executives from companies including Bergdorf Goodman and Net-a-Porter, it is embarking on fresh expansion plans with the launch of an international site, a new COO (another poach from NaP), a European warehouse, translation services and deals with Chinese, Japanese and Russian Vogues. Mothers, lock up your daughters.

I didn’t really mean that last bit (besides, it’s the mothers who are doing the buying). But I do think this is worth examining, because there is some interesting strategic information in this expansion brouhaha.

For an industry with its own calendar, that runs six months to a year or more ahead of the norm, fashion in general has proven idiotically obtuse about technology. After being famously late to the etail and social media party, and then engaging in a headlong rush to the virtual when it was clear where consumer tides were going, now they are once again dragging their feet when it comes to mobile applications, as a new study from digital think tank L2 shows.

Assessing 100 luxury brands from retail to hospitality, beauty, fashion, and watches and jewellery, on their engagement with mobile platforms (iPhones, Android, tablets), the report reveals that retailers are by far the most advanced (Sephora and Nordstrom are numbers one and two, followed by Macy’s and Net a Porter), then hospitality, with fashion and watches and jewellery trailing far behind. The first fashion brand, Ralph Lauren, comes in at 12, while of the bottom 10 m-“feeble” brands, six are fashion.

Moda Operandi, the new e-commerce site that allows consumers to order whatever they want from a designer’s collection straight from the runway, full price, for delivery months in the future, is upscaling yet again. After poaching Bergdorf Goodman’s fashion director Roopal Patel to be their fashion director and Marie Claire’s style and accessories director Taylor Tomasi Hill to be their artistic director last week, now they have lured away Net-a-Porter’s US head of marketing and sales, Ashley Bryan, who will become their chief marketing officer. That’s a doubling of senior staff in a week.

But then, the MO folks also say that next year they expect to more than double their membership, which was 15,000 at their launch last February and currently stands at almost 100,000, and also double their revenue (which is a number they, like many astoundingly successful web ventures, are not eager to disclose).

And, as the Once-ler says in The Lorax, the children’s book by Dr Seuss, MO plans to go on “biggering and biggering and biggering.” (To be clear: that’s a Dr Seuss quote, not an MO quote.)

Sir Isaac Newton said it first (actually, he said it third, if we are being specific): for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. So it should come as no surprise that after the soaring popularity of internet sale sites such as Gilt, Rue La La, and Ideeli, to name a few of the much-talked-about, cut-price, get-it-now-or-lose-out-forever-etailers, comes a new raft of sites geared not toward making high-end goods accessible to the masses, but rather helping the very few become even more elite.

Pay attention, you fashion/art/downtown people: The reign of black may be ending.

The other day I was chatting with Penny Martin, editor of the Gentlewoman (a very good magazine about females of great style, personal, creative, or professional) and she mentioned a conversation she had had with the designer Roksanda Ilincic.

“She told me she can’t design half as much dark clothes as she used to or that she would like to, because the bulk of her business is now through Net-a-Porter and dark doesn’t photograph well for online consumption,” said Penny.

Last week’s Paris collections were rather over-shadowed by events off the catwalk (the  Dior story), but one off-piste meeting has stuck in my mind, because I think it’s something to watch. It happened in a suite at the Ritz.

I had been called up to look at a new website called “Motilo,” which meant nothing to me, but turned out to be a pretty provocative, if simple, idea (the best ideas usually are – simple, that is). The brainchild of two very well-connected ex-financiers, Sofia Barattieri and Maysoune Ghobash, Motilo is, in effect, the first social shopping site.

So eBay has got itself a creative director, in the form of ex-Lucky mag staffer Andrea Linett, to gloss-up its fashion offerings. At least we know they can recognise a trend when they see one.

There is nothing hotter, after all, in the e-fashion world, than retail sites acquiring their very own fashion editor. Harrods, for example, lured away my ex-deputy, the talented Nicola Copping, last autumn (not that I’m resentful, oh no) to run their “content;” around the same time, my-wardrobe.com signed up ex-UK Grazia editor Fiona Macintosh as consultant creative director; and Google’s boutiques.com has a rotating cast of celeb stylists.

Material World

with Vanessa Friedman

About this blog About Vanessa Blog guide
Vanessa Friedman's blog deals with the fashion/luxury industry from both a corporate and consumer point of view, as well as the subject of dress.



Vanessa FriedmanVanessa has been the FT’s fashion editor since 2003, and is based in New York, though she lived in London for 12 years.
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