Tag: New York Fashion Week

So far the hands-down best moment of New York fashion week (for me, of course) has been the Miguel Adrover show, a mad romp back in time to the days when there was an actual underground in this city’s design scene, and men and women existed who just Had to Make Fashion, with nary a care for a commercial component.

The colour gurus at the Pantone Colour Institute have released their predictions for top colours of Fall 2012, just in time for New York Fashion Week. And why, you ask, should non-fashion people care? Because, I say, this will give us a sense of what we are going to see on the general election trail this fall.

(It is also an indication of the shades we may be inexplicably, but inexorably drawn to as we embark on post-holiday, back-to-work shopping.)

In the race to have the most connected catwalk — a race that has seen
Burberry sell direct-from-runway and Tweet each look as it appears, Dolce
and Gabbana live-stream the audience and the backstage preparations, and
every brand with a Facebook page host its show in real time — KCD, the
global publicity powerhouse, may have just trumped everyone. Today they are
announcing the “Digital Fashion Shows”, aka an “innovative information
delivery system”. Say that ten times fast.

President Barack Obama. AP/Paul Beaty

AP/Paul Beaty

The US electorate in general may be voicing ambivalence about the current administration (though it’s unclear who the alternative will be, or what they will think of him), and Wall Street may be swinging toward Mitt Romney, but one sector, at least, is standing by the current president: Fashion. In this election, as in the last, a number of America’s highest profile designers have stood up to lend their names and creative skills to fund-raising for their candidate.

Today, Runway to Win, a website created by the Obama Victory Fund 2012, is “previewing” products from 23 designers, all working under their own names, not their brand names, whose proceeds will go toward the melée to come. Some choice examples: $45 T-shirts from Marc Jacobs, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez (otherwise known as Proenza Schouler), Rachel Roy and Narciso Rodriguez, who has made my personal favourite, a white Tee with black sleeves and neckline and a “button” silk screened on the front with a blue rainbow over a red and white striped land; an Art Nouveau print scarf from Thakoon that is notably unrecognisable as a political statement (maybe too unrecognisable?) for $95; and a DVF tote with her signature heart and scrawl (Obama 12) on one side, and the stars — transformed into hearts — and stripes on the other ($85).

By Isabel Gorst

Our nominee for oddest moment of the just-ended New York Fashion Week came courtesy of an Uzbek.

Although the city has largely embraced foreign designers — Victoria Beckham and Preen, both British labels, show here, as do Brazilians Carlos Miele and Alexandre Herchcovitch and there was a special Korean fashion show this season — it was interesting to see IMG, the organizers of the week, buckle under pressure from human rights groups and cancel a show by the designer daughter of Islam Karimov, the authoritarian president of Uzbekistan.

What is with these French fashion houses? Do they not get enough attention?

New York fashion? What’s that?

Giles Deacon

Giles Deacon. Image by Getty.

Hermès can’t control the schedule of a court but the Ungaro announcement today is as weirdly timed as the Vuitton one yesterday.

I mean, Ungaro has a show in a few weeks in Paris designed by Giles that, according to a spokesperson, will go on, though without Giles. Apparently, it was a mutual decision to part ways, as the designer had different ideas for the direction of the house than the management, but I wonder how this will affect the audience?

After all, what is the point of reviewing a collection when the house is clearly changing aesthetic direction? Or buying it for stores for that matter, and risking confusing the customer? Going to a designer’s last collection, especially one that doesn’t have the support of the corporate side, is like going to a wake.

Seems to me it would have made more sense to at least wait until after the show, so it got the most bang for the lots of bucks that a runway production requires. But what do I know? I’m in New York!

Madeleine Albright

Madeleine Albright. Image by Vanessa Friedman.

Maybe, by watching the world’s most fashionable First Ladies, we’ve all been paying attention to the wrong high-profile women, at least as far as clothes go. Madeleine Albright, former secretary of state, put in a surprise appearance at Vera Wang, and as far as I am concerned, she left fellow celeb guests Serena Williams and Beyonce in the shade.

J. Crew show. Image by Vanessa Friedman.

At the J. Crew fashion week presentation, which had bright-messy-luxe, sequins-and-slouchy, pretty-is-cool-ness (all of which, in its hands, manages to somehow not seem an oxymoron), I started chatting to Mickey Drexler, the company’s chief executive. Mr Drexler was standing with three of his board members, and all of them were wearing blazers and button-down shirts, no tie.

Anyway, we were talking about the show and the board, when Ikram Goldman, the owner of Chicago mega-boutique Ikram, and the woman who originally put the Obamas in J. Crew, came up to say hi to me. Then she turned to Mr Drexler.

Dress from the Victoria line

Dress from the Victoria collection. Image by Vanessa Friedman.

Not her personally — her company. This summer Victoria Beckham expanded both her family and her family business, and in New York she unveiled both results on Monday.

The first, Harper, her new baby, sat happily on her mother’s lap as VB showed the second: not a diffusion, not a licence, but a lower-priced, looser-fitting, all-dress line called Victoria. Maybe the best way to think of it is as an alternative sartorial personality.

“I think it is!” She said of the easy crepe dresses inspired by the cartoon character Emily Le Strange and printed with line drawings of cats, the colour bloc shifts and memory jacquards curved à la sac dress at the back. “It’s the other side of my wardrobe.” In other words, there are no corsets, the basis of her signature collection, here. “Sometimes you don’t want to worry about the tummy area,” she acknowledged.

New York skyline on September 11, 2011.

New York skyline on Sept 11, 2011. Getty Images.

I asked last week whether New York Fashion Week would mark the 10th anniversary of 9/11.

The anniversary was a difficult day and I found the psychological dissonance created by observing fashion shows on the anniversary of 9/11 while my children watched the memorial ceremony at Ground Zero — seeing a product about the future, on a day about the past — jarring.

As that rare thing, a native New Yorker, I had found it odd that, until yesterday, NY fashion had seemingly done so little to deal with, or even acknowledge the events of 9/11.

Material World

with Vanessa Friedman

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Vanessa Friedman's blog deals with the fashion/luxury industry from both a corporate and consumer point of view, as well as the subject of dress.



Vanessa FriedmanVanessa has been the FT’s fashion editor since 2003, and is based in New York, though she lived in London for 12 years.
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