Yves Saint-Laurent’s designer, Stefano Pilati, holds his last show for the line today in Paris, just a week after Raf Simons put on his farewell collection in Milan for Jil Sander with a triumphant display that was about as much of a diss to those who let him go as I’ve ever seen, demonstrating as it did what they were giving up.
These two departures have caused a lot of navel-gazing in the fashion world (and yes: mea culpa, by writing this I know I am guilty too) about the tensions between the creative and business sides of the industry, the demands of the cycle and designers being dumped.
Suzy Menkes, fashion editor of the International Herald Tribune, wrote about this last week. Then, yesterday, Cathy Horyn, the New York Times’ fashion critic – and another fellow fashion week traveller and friend – also weighed in on the topic: Read more
“We Are All Guilty for this Mess,” according to Suzy Menkes, fashion editor of the International Herald Tribune. In a heartfelt piece in her newspaper, my fellow Fashion Week traveller and friend took the fashion industry (herself included) to task for the very public soap opera that is the current round of designer switcheroos, in which bystanders gossip and place bets and tweet about real jobs and real people like they are characters in a reality television game.
It’s tough and honest and has people buzzing at the shows, and I recommend you read it, but I’m also not sure I entirely agree with it. I think she’s right about the situation, but doesn’t fully get to the cause. Read more
Stefano Pilati. Image by Getty.
And so yet another designer departure is official: Stefano Pilati is leaving Yves Saint Laurent. Finally, the years of rumours about his impending demise (at the house, natch, not really) can stop! They are no longer exaggerated!
The timing of this announcement was as weird as that of Raf Simons’ recent departure from Jil Sander – this one comes a full week before Pilati’s last YSL show. My guess is the reasons were similar: news had leaked, gossip was rampant. Word on the street (and in my ears) was Hedi Slimane, who long ago ran YSL men’s wear to much acclaim, was on the way back. WWD published it. When I emailed Paul Deneuve, YSL’s chief executive, he made non-committal noises about “rumours,” and didn’t corroborate – or actually deny – any of it. Read more
For everyone who was super-hyper-over-excited about the recent rumours, sparked this weekend by a report in the IHT, that Jil Sander’s Raf Simons was going to take over for Stefano Pilati at Yves Saint Laurent – well, Paul Deneuve, the chief executive of YSL, just told me it wasn’t true. Read more