Tag: Ralph Lauren

For an industry with its own calendar, that runs six months to a year or more ahead of the norm, fashion in general has proven idiotically obtuse about technology. After being famously late to the etail and social media party, and then engaging in a headlong rush to the virtual when it was clear where consumer tides were going, now they are once again dragging their feet when it comes to mobile applications, as a new study from digital think tank L2 shows.

Assessing 100 luxury brands from retail to hospitality, beauty, fashion, and watches and jewellery, on their engagement with mobile platforms (iPhones, Android, tablets), the report reveals that retailers are by far the most advanced (Sephora and Nordstrom are numbers one and two, followed by Macy’s and Net a Porter), then hospitality, with fashion and watches and jewellery trailing far behind. The first fashion brand, Ralph Lauren, comes in at 12, while of the bottom 10 m-“feeble” brands, six are fashion.

Anyone else notice anything surprising about the Duchess of Cambridge’s appearance yesterday at a Centrepoint shelter in a £350 Ralph Lauren polo-neck dress? Let me repeat that: a £350 RALPH LAUREN polo neck dress. Ralph Lauren? An American designer on a British royal?

The Duchess of Cambridge visits a Centrepoint shelter - Getty Images

Shocking.

Yet there was not one tabloid squawk. The Daily Mail was too busy drooling over her “tiny waist” and the fact that before you could say “olive green” the store had sold out of all except the largest sizes. National sartorial codes have been turned on their head and no one even blinked an eye.

I am not exaggerating. Try to imagine the Duchess’s mother-in-law, Princess Diana, not wearing British when she stepped out for a public event. She didn’t really get to break national designer ranks until she got divorced, when she skeddadled as fast as she could to Versace. Ditto Jacqueline Kennedy, who famously had to get Oleg Cassini to copy all her French dresses so she could be seen to be wearing American clothes when her husband was in the White House.

Last night Ralph Lauren was on stage at Alice Tully Hall being interviewed by Oprah Winfrey. The nominal reason was a benefit event for Lincoln Center and the Ralph Lauren Center for Cancer Care and Prevention, and the great and the good attended: Larry Gagosian, the gallery owner, Bruce Weber, the photographer, Jill Abramson, the executive editor of the New York Times and Barbara Walters, the veteran interviewer, and so on. It was all super-lovey and they raised $7m, which turned out to be a Lincoln Center record, but the thing that really made the evening for me were two comments buried in the interview. They reveal quite a lot not just about Mr Lauren, but fashion in general.

Getty Images

1. The first was a response from Mr Lauren to a question from Ms Winfrey, who was resplendent in Ralph red: “How have you kept creating this magic for 35 years?” she asked (she was talking about his fashion shows).

Answer: “You copy.”

Very interesting comment from a reader yesterday, noting that as Michelle Obama has become more established in her role, she has adopted more establishment designers. And indeed, there she was last night at yet another black tie event in the UK, in…Ralph Lauren!

Getty Images

He is pretty much king of the American fashion establishment. In other words: more supporting evidence! And people complain about her husband not fulfilling his early promise of change and playing it safe. I hope she doesn’t relegate her style bravado to niche daytime events.

In yesterday’s Oprah-meets-Ralph-Lauren-in-Telluride show (the first tv interview the image-obsessive designer has given in 20 years,) one admission stood out a mile.

Not Mr Lauren’s revelation that when he was young he wanted to be Batman (so does my son); not the up-close-and-personal view of the five, count ‘em, guest tepees on the property, all equipped as if for a RL ad with various vintage Navajo blankets and photos; not even the designer’s coy insecurity about the challenge of making his daughter Dylan’s wedding gown. No, what has stayed with me overnight, burrowing its way into my sleeping brain, is Mr Lauren’s sense that he is an “ambassador.”

Yes, fashion loves ambassadors: some brands have several. Keira Knightley was a Chanel ambassador, for example; so was Alexa Chung. What’s new?

Prince William and Kate Middleton

Getty images

RWD minus 1 and slowly the sartorial chips are falling into place.

Anna Valentine, of Robinson Valentine, will reportedly make Camilla’s dress (no surprise; they made her wedding dress).

Alberta Ferretti has announced that they are making Chelsy Davy’s dress: “For the ceremony she will be wearing an aqua green bias reverse satin dress. This will be teamed with an aqua green faille silk jacket with a deep boat neck and a knot detail. For the evening party she will be wearing a one shoulder midnight blue crepe satin gown with a cut out detail on the back”. This is interesting; Ferretti is Italian, not necessarily the most politic choice for a maybe-girlfriend of Prince Harry, which suggests either Ms Davy doesn’t care about protocol, even the unwritten kind, or she’s not that interested in being part of The Firm.

Emmanuelle Alt

Emmanuelle Alt - - Getty Images

Forget all that stuff about old media fashion editors being threatened by the presence of bloggers in various fashion show front rows – - that was so last season. This season, as New York fashion week kicks off (whoopee!!!),  it’s all about old media taking on old media.

So far most of the buzz has centred on the first NYC appearance of new French Vogue editor Emmanuelle Alt, who, in myriad interviews before her debut as head of the big FV, has revealed:

Mayor Bloomberg with Ralph Lauren

Mayor Bloomberg with Ralph Lauren

Mayor Bloomberg’s love affair with fashion (and what it can bring to the local New York economy) continues apace. After cutting the ribbon on the Armani flagship store on Fifth Avenue, celebrating Burberry’s new store on Madison, and opening New York Fashion Week’s new home at Lincoln Center, the Mayor has turned his affection to Ralph Lauren, whom he awarded the key to New York City last night during a celebratory cocktail at the new RL womens’ flagship on Madison Avenue.

In front of friends (Jerry and Jessica Seinfeld), clients, and other executives likewise on the receiving end of Mr Lauren’s corporate largesse (the editors of pretty much every glossy magazine based in the city that carries Ralph Lauren advertising, from Harper’s Bazaar to Vanity Fair and In Style) the two men descended the gracefully curving staircase of Mr Lauren’s store like a newlyweds, pausing on a landing to make brief speeches.

It never rains but it pours (and in Brooklyn, where I live, it just hailed). After the Gap online logo hoo-ha comes a report from the Stern business school at New York University and the think tank L2 entitled “Digital IQ Index: Luxury,” looking at how 72 luxury brands are handling themselves online, on their websites, social media, digital marketing and mobile apps. Guess what? They’re stuck in the mud!

According to the study, none of the brands employ user reviews (which are considered the fastest way to increase sales), “only three have live chat capability, and just two have incorporated the Facebook ‘Like button’” and only five out of 72 brands have a “commerce-enabled mobile experience.” Tsk, tsk.

This morning Bain & Company released a study, in conjunction with American Vogue, on the shopping habits of the “style-conscious” US consumer. They say it’s the first such attempt to look at these fashion addicts (my words) - women who spend more than $1,000 on apparel, or $250 on accessories, or $100 on beauty, and who “select a 3, 4, or 5 on a 5-point scale for the following questions: ‘I follow the latest fashions’ and ‘I am stylish’” — across the every price point market in clothing, accessories, and beauty. There are some interesting bits.

Bain reports, for example, that 40 per cent of the population is responsible for 70 per cent of its spend; these shoppers spend an average of $2800 a year, which is three times the national average; they spend twice as much on clothes on-line as average consumers; and 80 per cent say they will be pay more for quality. Yowza!

Material World

with Vanessa Friedman

About this blog About Vanessa Blog guide
Vanessa Friedman's blog deals with the fashion/luxury industry from both a corporate and consumer point of view, as well as the subject of dress.



Vanessa FriedmanVanessa has been the FT’s fashion editor since 2003, and is based in New York, though she lived in London for 12 years.
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