Tag: Versace

Brad Pitt, the first male face of Chanel. Getty Images

Brad Pitt, the first male face of Chanel. Getty Images

After Nicole Kidman, after Audrey Tatou, after Carol Bouquet, comes…Brad Pitt? Chanel has just announced the latter will be the new, and first male face of their cash cow — aka the perfume Chanel No 5 — one of the best-selling perfumes in the world since it debuted in 1921.

Now, that’s a surprise.

It’s surprising because, other then making the announcement, the company has demurred from saying anything else on the subject (like why they made the choice), though those such as me asked, quite politely. It’s surprising because generally men are not thought of as effective selling perfume agents when it comes to women’s scents (though perhaps the Chanel folks were inspired by the recent success of Justin Bieber’s Someday, a woman’s fragrance with him in the ads). And it’s surprising because Mr Pitt’s fiance, Angelina Jolie, was recently the face of the Louis Vuitton monogram line, and Chanel and Vuitton are Big Luxury Competitors. Oooooooh. Could this be a family brand face-off?

Anyone else notice anything surprising about the Duchess of Cambridge’s appearance yesterday at a Centrepoint shelter in a £350 Ralph Lauren polo-neck dress? Let me repeat that: a £350 RALPH LAUREN polo neck dress. Ralph Lauren? An American designer on a British royal?

The Duchess of Cambridge visits a Centrepoint shelter - Getty Images

Shocking.

Yet there was not one tabloid squawk. The Daily Mail was too busy drooling over her “tiny waist” and the fact that before you could say “olive green” the store had sold out of all except the largest sizes. National sartorial codes have been turned on their head and no one even blinked an eye.

I am not exaggerating. Try to imagine the Duchess’s mother-in-law, Princess Diana, not wearing British when she stepped out for a public event. She didn’t really get to break national designer ranks until she got divorced, when she skeddadled as fast as she could to Versace. Ditto Jacqueline Kennedy, who famously had to get Oleg Cassini to copy all her French dresses so she could be seen to be wearing American clothes when her husband was in the White House.

Looking back over 2011, which I am currently doing for a Christmas Eve column, I’ve been struck by the fact that one trend dominates all others by a significant margin, having held true from last March through year end: the IPO.

Despite all the economic gloom, fashion houses apparently have turned away from their  flirtation with private equity and now think tapping public pockets is the way to grow.

Consider the following:

June: Prada lists on the Hong Kong stock exchange, ditto Samsonite, and Ferragamo lists in Milan.

November: Coach takes a secondary stock listing in Hong Kong and Graff announces it is  planning another Hong Kong IPO for 2012.

December: Chow Tai Fook lists in HK.

Meanwhile, this week Tumi, the super-strong luggage company sold in 1,600 stores around the world, filed papers with the SEC for an IPO. And tomorrow, in an already over-subscribed offering, Michael Kors will become the first American fashion company to go public in years, trading under the name — yes — KORS. The listing is expected to value the company at $3.4bn. Zowie!

The Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, French fashion’s governing body, has just announced that Versace is returning to the Paris couture schedule eight years after leaving it due to cutbacks. Is this good news?

Or rather, is it enough good news?

For Versace, the answer is presumably yes: couture is a neon sign that it has its house in order. The company can afford to publicly reenter a low margin, mostly for prestige, super niche area.

So it all came true, and PPR did, indeed, buy Italian men’s wear luxury brand Brioni. So far, so rumoured. But what does it mean? It seems to me there are two main implications to the deal:

1. Men’s wear is the new frontier.

Although widely heralded as one of the greatest men’s wear brands, Brioni itself spent several years chasing the women’s market. This began in the early noughties under then-CEO Umberto Angeloni, with ready-to-wear that looked a lot like men’s wear (think elegant cashmere suiting), and continued when the family took the helm back under Andrea Perrone, with snazzier styles by Alessandro Dell’Acqua. Mr Perrone was the founder’s grandson, but he resigned last year to make way for another non-family CEO Francesco Pesci (complicated, I know). But they all sought to tap the theory that women shopped and spent more than men.

The efforts didn’t work, and they gave up on women’s wear last August, which seems to have sat well with PPR. Indeed, in their statement, PPR was careful to call Brioni a “men’s wear-only brand,” a telling appellation. PPR has enough women’s wear brands after all; their only brand with a major upmarket men’s wear presence is Gucci. Their investment is in the guy factor – especially as it relates to China where it is the men who shop and spend more.

Though in many ways the brands mentioned in the headline – Hermès and Donald Trump – are what one would think of (OK, I would think of) as polar opposites, the former being famous for its discrete elegance, the latter being famous for its in-your-face 24-carat bluster, they are nevertheless setting up house together in … the Philippines. Below is a rendering of their love nest.

Century Properties

The relationship was brokered by Robbie Antonio, managing director of Century Properties, and the man behind what is increasingly looking like a mini fashion-city in Manila: high-rise condos with public areas (lobbies, libraries, pools) and apartments decorated by Versace, Missoni (both Italian labels) and now Hermès. He already had a licence deal with Trump on the table to build Trump Tower Manila (the building is owned and operated by Century), which will become the most luxurious, expensive, property in the city, and thought, he said, it would be great to have “two very formidable brands involved in the most important single tower.” He approached Hermès, which had recently launched a furniture line, and the French brand agreed to create the building’s shared spaces.

And you thought all that stuff on the runways was enough! Designers – especially, it seems, Italian designers – are busily embracing all sorts of product opportunities beyond the ready-to-wear, from apartment buildings to yachts. Hotels, fashion’s erstwhile favourite diversification initiative, are so yesterday.

What else to make of the fact that both Missoni and Versace have teamed up with Century Properties in Manila to create the interiors of new high-rise developments, and Fendi just completed a boat with Princess Yachts. After all, you know what they say: one example is a fluke; two is a coincidence; but three, well, three’s a trend.

We have trend, people.

One of the more controversial, if obscure, practices in the fashion world is “sand-blasting”, the process by which sand is fired at denim at high speeds: pow, pow! While this can make the fabric look cool, it also releases silica dust which can cause pulmonary disease. Good for the catwalk, not so good for the factory workers, as the Clean Clothes Campaign discovered, so last year it started asking brands, luxury and otherwise, to look at their production processes and do the right thing.

So far, so normal, except in the case of at least one of the targeted companies.

Aerin  Lauder

Aerin Lauder -- Getty Images

Say that 10 times fast!

Actually, this isn’t a tongue twister, it’s a surprising new luxury industry development.

Aerin Lauder, the family standard bearer of the Lauder cosmetic empire (she was the face of a recent fragance), as well as a senior vice-president, is leaving the company to start her own brand. (You can read more about it in the link above to the NY Post. I have had Ms Lauder’s move confirmed by a source. Estée Lauder, however, wouldn’t comment on the story.)

This is a big deal, and not just because Aerin has been so effective as the public representative of the group, popping up at charitable dos and in magazines everywhere to tout company values and colour cosmetics.

It’s a big deal because of what it suggests for the industry: namely, going forward, you’re nothing if you’re not lifestyle. It’s not enough just to be a billion dollar beauty conglomerate anymore.

Dress from Christopher Kane catwalk show

Christopher Kane Spring-Summer 2011 collection - - image by Catwalking.com

The answer to the above question — what’s wrong with British fashion — is summed up for me in today’s announcement that Christopher Kane has won the 2011 BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund award. This is the UK’s answer to the fashion fund started in the US by Anna Wintour, wherein the fashion industry acknowledges that if it is going to have a future it needs to help, rather than eat, its young, and promising designers with realistic, if rudimentary, businesses are given money and mentoring by successful designers, and thus firmly established on the road to global domination. Or something.

Material World

with Vanessa Friedman

About this blog About Vanessa Blog guide
Vanessa Friedman's blog deals with the fashion/luxury industry from both a corporate and consumer point of view, as well as the subject of dress.



Vanessa FriedmanVanessa has been the FT’s fashion editor since 2003, and is based in New York, though she lived in London for 12 years.
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