January 4th, 2007
Wine prices and globalisation
Sitting in my inbox is an e-mail from Farr Vintners– who claim to be the biggest fine wine dealers in the world – inviting me to buy some 2005 Bordeaux. Apparently it is a vintage of “compelling greatness”.
And what a bargain too! For just £22,000 you can buy a 12-bottle case of Chateau Pétrus. If you are too much of a cheapskate to stump up for the Pétrus, you might consider something a bit more downmarket – like a case of Chateau Margaux for £5,000.
As it happens, I can remember a halcyon age when I used to drink wines like Margaux and Pétrus reasonably regularly – the 1970s. It is true that Britain was in dire trouble back then: strikes were endemic and electricity was intermittent. But there were also some good things about the British economy of the 1970s. One of them was that even a London University academic (my father) could afford occasionally to buy wines like Lafite, Margaux or Pétrus and serve them to his deserving children. It was all pleasantly redolent of the immortal cry from “Withnail and I”: “I want the finest wines known to humanity. I want them here. And I want them now.”










